Here are 5 alternatives to common bullnose tile edge trim.
One of the mistakes that I see a lot of homeowners and DIYers make with tile installations is that they sometimes don’t use any tile trim on the exposed tile edges.
Many times they think the edge of the tile looks OK or they simply don’t want to pay the increased cost of all the bullnose tile trim pieces.
Yes, the bullnose pieces are expensive, and, yes, they do add up. So they simply don’t use any bullnose and you’re looking at the edge of the tile as the finished product.
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Worse still is the DIYer tries to grout the edge to make it look more finished. PLEASE don’t do this!
If you know someone that is considering one of these two options then I’m asking you to gather close friends and family and stage an intervention. Then show them this blog post.
Why Not Bullnose Trim Tiles?
There’s nothing wrong with bullnose tile trim. In fact, it’s a great way to finish off the edge of the tile.
However, not everyone is crazy about bullnose trim and most people really don’t like the prices of them. Frequently, they cost the same amount of money as the field tile, and sometimes, they cost more.
Also not all tile comes in bullnose trim especially if you are looking for some of the more modern and contemporary tile looks.
A quick mention: if you are looking at subway tile make sure to read my post-Subway Tile Installation: Three Basic Tips which does talk about bullnose trim options for subway tile.
So if not bullnose, then what? Here are 5 alternatives to the classic and common bullnose tile trim.
Natural Stone tile edge trim
Natural stone can be polished so that the edges look finished. In some cases, the edges may not even need polishing. These types of natural stone include:
- marble
- granite
- travertine
You can buy a few pieces of travertine and cut them down into smaller sizes. Not only is this an economical use of material but it can make for an elegantly finished edge to your ceramic or porcelain wall tile.
Special equipment is required for polishing. However, you can always hire a granite fabrication shop or another tile contractor to do the polishing if it’s something that you would rather not take on.
Finally, premade trim pieces are a great option:
Glass tile edge trim
Glass is another material that naturally has a finished edge. Although, unlike natural stone, the edge is usually finished without any additional steps.
There are a lot of different glass tiles available these days.
Examples of glass tile that can be used as tile edge trim include:
If you can find one that coordinates with your tile then this may be a good tile edge trim option.
How to Cut Glass Tile: 7 Tips Revealed
Metal Profile edges
I know that just the mention of metal edge trim is going to cause some to skip right past this section. No doubt some will envision dreary hospitals and cold modern minimalist homes when thinking of metal tile trim.
But metal profiles are a fast-growing market and there are a lot more options and styles than there used to be.
Typically, the most common style is called “L” style which leaves a flat edge. These tend to be the least expensive, are widely available, and are great for achieving minimalist styling.
Additionally, squarish and rounded profiles are becoming more popular. Examples of the different styles are:
- “L” style (Jolly or Schiene in the Schluter line)
- squarish (Schluter Quadec)
- rounded (Schluter Rondec)
As for pricing, the simple “L” style is quite economical as long as you like the usual finishes:
- brushed aluminum
- chrome (coated)
- plastic
These can be as low as $1 per linear foot.
However when you get into the squarish and bullnosed shapes and/or finishes such as:
then the costs can be $30-$80 per 8 ft stick and higher.
Side note: The “L” style is commonly used for tile floor transitions, as well, such as tile-to-carpet and tile-to-hardwood transitions.
Mitering
An often overlooked option is to miter the tile edges. This option is only for corners and it isn’t the most durable option.
Mitering tile on stairs is something that I don’t think is a good idea as I don’t think the corners will hold up over the long term.
A lot of the more modern tile saws will have a head that tilts so that it bevels the edge of the tile at an angle but even the old ones can work with a wedge-type guide.
This well-reviewed saw from Amazon is under $100 and has a table that allows for mitering.
DELTA CRUZER 7-INCH TILE SAW VS DEWALT D24000 | TOOL REVIEW
Custom Bullnose Tile
Lastly, there’s the option of making your own bullnose tiles. This requires that your tile is a through-body porcelain tile.
What that means is that instead of just a clay body with a glaze over the top the tile would have the color throughout the tile.
This allows the edge of the tile to be bullnosed and the color will be the same, or similar, to the surface. Much like a natural stone.
They make a “blade” for this that can fit on a tile saw for the DIY’ers that want to try this. I’ve had mediocre results when I tried this but it works.
Again this requires special equipment but a granite slab shop has the tools and will usually perform the service if you ask. Also simply polishing the flat edge can be done if you desire a square but finished edge.
One last option for custom bullnosing is American Bullnose that will bullnose any tile (I believe). They can bullnose the tile and glaze the edge so that it looks finished. This is for when your tile doesn’t come with its own bullnose tile edge trim.
Conclusion
So there are 5 options, plus bullnose tiles make 6, that are on the table for considering how to finish the edge of your tile.
The trend in tile choices are exploding and there just aren’t enough matching trim tiles being made. Hopefully, one of these tile edge trim alternatives will work for you.
No matter which you choose, learn how to calculate the proper amount of trim tiles for your project. And if you are measuring a shower for trim tiles you will want to see this post.
Any thoughts on an edge trim for 3×6 Daltile Rittenhouse Square subway tile set in HERRINGBONE pattern, besides a run of bullnose?
Just the options contained in this post. The metal profile edging would be the simplest, I would think.
Unfortunately, none of those solutions fits our design aesthetic, not even the simple metal edge. Of course, our situation is a small flat-front fireplace surround. We’re having the original 6X6 tile replaced by 2-1/2″ white octagon mosaic tile. We don’t want a decorative edge on the left and right; our remodel is modern, functional, clean, smooth, etc. (as much as possible). Our fireplace-tile guy suggested the metal edge, but the idea is giving my husband and me anxiety. The original tile (builder-installed 24 years ago) had some kind of fill-in material, possibly caulk. It blended in and disappeared visually. Essentially, that’s what we want: a finish that just disappears into the wall (visually speaking). Any ideas for that? The tile guy is returning this morning.
I find that it’s near impossible to grout the edge of cut octagon or hexagon tiles and have it look clean and finished.
For the look that you’ve described, I’d recommend taking another look at the metal profiles. They can give a finished and minimalist looking edge and come in different colors, like white instead of chrome.
Hi. Is it okay to leave the tile edge exposed around the set down shower floor? My builder says it is ok but my tile is grey and the side of the tile is terracotta.
It depends on the tile, what the homeowner wants, and what is available. If it’s a through-body porcelain tile then it’s usually ok but the edges will oftentimes need to be sanded to remove the rough edge and expose the color of the edge and have it look finished.
If that’s not the look that you want of the tile edge won’t look finished then you could look into the options posted above.
I have kitchen area in basement with only 1 upper cab8net on one wall and one wall with nothing above over sink. Want to use backsplash but not sure about how high to go and how I finish the edges and where backsplash stops up the wall. Please I need some ideas. Thank you.
This post has a few ideas for how to finish the edges. I don’t really have any ideas beyond what I’ve written in this post.
Hello. We just remodeled our bathroom and I have a problem with the way the edge of the tub is done. The edge is exactly like your mitered edge picture, just one side , the other is under the tub. Since it’s finished what can I do to cover that edge? The bathroom is a pretty marble and I want to put a marble edge. It’s already done so we can only put on top of the two meeting edges. Help! Thanks
It is possible that there is a reason for combining mitering with overlapping but without seeing the situation I couldn’t say for sure.
If you are asking about simply gluing a piece of marble over the top of the tile then I think that would be OK. Probably a urethane or epoxy product would work best for that.
I was caught by your photo of glass tile edge trim and may well end up using it. However, I have a different question.
I really like the thin, horizontal mosaic strip that runs around the walls. It’s just what I need to break up a large wall. However, I can’t find it! Do you remember by any chance what it is and where you bought it (if indeed you did)?
Many thanks, David.
If your asking about the photo with the glass edge trim them the glass mosaic used in that shower is Lunada Bay Tozen Wing and color is Stronium Silk.
I believe this exact product has been discontinued not you can still get the color and model in different shapes, I believe.
Would you recommend a bullnose trim for beveled tile? I’m looking to do a 3×12 beveled subway tile for a kitchen backsplash. If it is recommended, what size tile?
Bullnose is fine. The challenge with beveled subway tile is the half cuts on the ends.
The half cuts are thick and the full tile are thin on the edge.
I recommend cutting both tiles so the thick part is on the edge and finding a way to trim the thick edge.
Hopefully, that makes some sense
I have slate tile at the front of my living room.. Unfortunately, when you enter the front door, there is a squared-out entrance, but you need to “step up” into the living area. The tile was installed fine. Actually, the tile and grout lines up perfectly with the tile and grout lines in the “sunken” area. My problem now is that people need to be able to see the edges and know that they are there and not trip up the step when walking in, or accidentally step off and fall when going to the front door. Is there any way I can paint an edge (perhaps textured) around the square perimeter so that it is visible? Maybe a shade darker (or lighter) than the gray slate? I don’t want to keep saying “watch your step” every time someone not familiar with the entry walks over to it. Any ideas would be appreciated.
What you could do is cut small grooves on the top end of the step. Maybe 5 or 6 grooves that total about 3 to 4 inches wide.
I’m thinking 1/16 inch deep and they would run from end to end.
That way it looks sort of like a traction step.
The only other thing that I can think of is to get some stone enhancer and apply that to the same area. I don’t think it will show up as well and the enhancer can actually be slippery.
They make an adhesive sand paper type of step that could be ordered in different colors. That’s probably not what you want though.
We are planning on laying 12”X24” Carrera pattern porcelain tiles on fireplace hearth. Our problem is the drywall edge is bull nosed. How to finish the edge?
Not sure I can properly visualize your situation but can you hold the edge back before the curve?
Thank yo u for taking time to reply.
OK, the bullnose is on the leading edge of the hearth and rolls down toward the face. My wife has decided she would like to “square up” the edge .with 1/2” wide trim tile.
To accomplish this I’m going to try and epoxy the trim pieces to the leading edge of field tile to hide the drywall bullnose. Don’t know if this is a real sound approach but it’s the only thing I can think of…
I suppose that could work. Once the tile is installed you could also fill in the rounded edge and that might help support the trim so it stays flat.
Thanks again.
We are preparing to retile our outdoor front covered foyer, with a 8×48 wood look tile. The foyer is about 12 feet x 12 feet, with one side being the glass front door, 2 side walls, and the front edge. The installer will go over the current tile. He is suggesting a metal edge trim. The current tile has a bullnose edge. Why is he suggesting a metal edge? What are my other options? The metal edge just doesn’t seem like the right first impression for my home.
They probably don’t make a bullnose tile trim to match that tile. So you have to either go with a different bullnose tile that is approved for exterior floor use and hopefully coordinates or go with a different option.
The metal profiles are a simple way to trim the edge and they make them for a wide variety of functions.
I understand if you don’t like the metal trim and I discussed other options on this post.
I suppose reselecting tile would be an additional option.
Having trouble finding metal tile trim longer than 8 ft. Any suggestions?
I’m not sure I’ve seen it longer than 8ft (or at least a metric 8). When I need longer than 8 ft I’ve just butted two pieces together in the least obvious area.
There’s only so much one can do.
I’m stumped maybe you have a suggestion for me Our builder left my shower edge tile outside the shower without bullnose. They did what I now know as a crap job. They ended the tile with a flat edge tile. I jane looked into Bulnose tiles to finish it off however they all are too big. The wall had a very thin edge to finish abd in fact the space is not even all the way up the wall. It’s thinner with less roomat the top half and a larger area near the bottom. I would love to send photos. I think your idea of the metal edge may work for me. I just don’t know what I looking for or where. How is it installed?
Hi Cara, I left a comment on your post that you made on Facebook.com/DIYTileGuy. I also want to reply over here for the benefit of others looking on.
The rounded trim piece that you had was a good solution, I thought. The problem with metal edging is that it’s installed by sliding it behind the tile which, at this point, is an issue.
However, I realize that I misunderstood your comment. You meant that the wall reveal is inconsistent whereas I thought you meant that the bottom tiles were built out more.
You could try to get some plastic edging at Home Depot or Lowes and cut it down and see if you can get it to stay on the edge of the tile somehow. I suggest plastic because it’s easier to cut. It might take a little bit of digging behind the tile and then some glue, or caulking, to get it to stay on.
If this is tried, this would be one area where I would suggest trying the acrylic color matching caulk as opposed to 100% silicone.
Hopefully, this is helpful. Feel free to comment here or on my Facebook page if you have any more comments/questions.
Hi, my mosaic tiles are going on the inside and outside trim of the window. Since the plastic trim would cover the mosaic and break the flow, my tile installer says he can grout the corner where the tiles meet. The tile edges have the red ceramic color and after reading your blog, I am now concerned about the grout option. He is working right now on this. Any suggestions ? Should I be rather use the trim for a finished look? When is it too late to make this change?
I apologize but I don’t understand this question. “Outside trim of the window” sounds like the exterior of the house but that doesn’t make any sense. Are we talking about plastic pvc window casing?
edit: I think you’re talking about plastic tile trim and the tile will go on the wall and inside of the window sill.
If so, it doesn’t sound like seeing the red edge of the tile is acceptable. I have my doubts about the installers solution. If he’s talking about mitering the tile edges then that may work.
But if he’s talking about angling the grout between two surfaces then that is going to look worse than the plastic trim.
I have a hunch that the plastic trim is going to be the best and most cost-effective solution. It may not be perfect but a better solution would likely cost more.
hi
We are finishing the top of our tub/shower (just to showerhead) with chair rail. We love the look. Problem is vertical trim….keep the chair rail all the way around? The problem is transitioning to bullnose if we dont. They dont make a finished corner chair rail piece. Any thoughts?
You have to do a mitered corner on the chair rail just like you would with wood trim. There will be a really tiny piece that you put on the end. It’s not a fun cut on a tile saw but you can get it with a couple of different tries.
This post was very helpful! Thank you. Is any trim or transition needed between a shower base/pan and the tile used for the shower walls? What about where the tile meets the ceiling? It looks like we at least need it for the two outside edges of the shower, the shower niche and perhaps the two inner corners where two different tiles meet. We are likely going with the L metal profile.
Recently, we hired a contractor to come out and retile our shower walls, floor, and also add shampoo niches. Aside from the fact that we have had to have the tiler out here twice since to correct a puddling , thinset and grout chunks that were dried to somefloor tiles along with that we couldn’t remove, I am anxious about having him come out here again as I am losing faith that he knows best practices in tiling bathrooms. After the fixes and job was complete, I noticed that there isn’t any trim around any of the edges whatsoever. This means that not only the edges entering the shower are Not trimmed, but also around the shampoo niches, Window, and the 6ft floor. Although the tile is porcelain, I believe it is just a glaze over the top. He smeared grout over two of the edges. What do you recommend we do in this situation? Do we chisel the grout off the edge then seal it? Can any of these trims be installed over the glossy porcelain tiles? We have a fairly minamalist shower.
The L profile is great for any exposed edges of tile that will be seen.
So you don’t need it for the shower pan perimeter, around the ceiling, or even the inside corners. Simply tiling up to those areas and leaving a 1/8 inch gap (recommended by the tile industry) is all that is needed. Then you’ll want to caulk those inside corners with 100% silicone caulk. This post might be helpful if you decide to do it this way.
https://www.diytileguy.com/silicone-caulk/
However, if you choose use a metal profile in the inside corners they make them especially for this purpose. Look into Schluter Dilex for a variety of inside corner trim.
Additionally, while the L trim isn’t for inside corners it could be used at the ceiling if you wanted.
The metal profiles are designed to be installed underneath the tile so, at this point, I’m not sure what you can do except maybe be creative. Some of the other options in this post would work but may not give you the minimalist look that you are looking for.
These types of design situations are ideally talked about before the work begins. I understand that it’s beyond that point but if the contractor supplied the tile then it very well could be his responsibility to have proper trim and you may be able to press the issue. But if you guys supplied the tile then things get a lot murkier as far as who bears the responsibility of selecting, or not selecting, trim.
I’m redoing my shower I have large format(12×35.5)(3/8 thick) wall tile porcelain with high sheen glazed finish but has no finished edge. I purchased 1/2 schluter jolly trim. My concern is that part of the edge will be exposed past the trim because of the amount of thin set(1/2notch) recommend for large tiles. Would I be able to use a smaller notch to insure the tile would be flush with the trim edge ? Or grout that lip?
If the metal profile isn’t thicker than the tile with no thinset applied then there’s no reason that the tile should be proud of it when thinset is applied. It’s designed with holes on the back to let thinset pass through.
You could get creative and head to the art store. There are numerous products that could adapt to use. I’m considering an ecpoxy looking product. The finished result is like glass or ceramic. You’d need to mask off areas. Possible build, with tape or similar, a low mold. Apply a bead, let dry and then if required, sand. Then reapply a top coat. The result would be a finished edge either transparent like glass or opaque like ceramic and any color you choose. On side edges, you’d simply apply many layers, letting each dry in between. To build up whatever profile you need. I think, looking at current common option, this is what is called for. And I’m not sure why a very thin wood trim, waterproofed on all edges. Then resealed again after instalation isnt an option on edges that will not see wear. I know i dont want metal and thin bullnose is fine, but too expensive to my mind as I can see some excellent creative options.
Good suggestions. Thank you!
We are doing our shower/shower surround in white subway tile. The installer said something about metal edging which I definitely don’t want. I can’t find anything but short pencil thin subway tile trim in the bright white. I don’t think this is for edging. What else can we use?
Thanks! The metal trim is exactly what I was looking for. We’re renovating our kitchen with a modern style and have drywall returns around the windows. We plan to tile up to the ceiling so the metal trim will work nicely around the windows.
If it’s finished on two sides then it can be used as an edging. Otherwise, the suggestions mentioned in this post are what I would recommend as alternatives.
I’m glad that works for you!
This is a great post – thank you for sharing your knowledge. We are putting a tile countertop in a home in a tropical climate. This is a peninsula shaped room divider between the kitchen and the rest of the house. Dimensions are roughly 10 feet by 3 feet. One short end abuts a wall, the two long sides are straight and the last edge is a rounded semi-circle. We don’t want sharp corners and are trying to figure out how to edge the curve. Any thoughts?
I’ve cut radius tile countertops before but it’s not that easy. What do you think about just doing a 45 degree corner?
Our GC was about to use a whole lot of Schluter Jolly Satin Nickel in our master bath, but our tile salesperson felt the Schluter white PVC would be a much better match for our cream-colored tile. GC is very uneasy about using plastic, thinking it’ll yellow, crack and/or mildew over time. Any thoughts about this product and its durability etc.? Thanks. p.s we’re going for a contemporary style, but feel the metal actually looks a little dated at this point.
I don’t know enough about the longevity of the pvc profiles and how they age. They do have some innovations in these profiles and you might find a differently shaped or textured one that you find acceptable.
Hi. I am working with a contractor on our master bathroom remodel. He is suggesting a schleutter bullnose for the shower – there are bullnose pieces for the tile, but he is suggesting the metal will work best. I am uncomfortable and don’t know who to ask. I’ve not seen this look (other than as an outline for a niche) The bullnose will be used on a bench in the shower as well as a short wall surrounding the shower. I appreciated your advice in this forum so taking a chance. Thank you.
If you want the bullnose tile then I don’t understand why that isn’t the selection? Whoever is designing the shower and choosing materials should be the one to dictate which trim is used.
I am wanting to use small herringbone honed marble tiles for a bathroom floor. Can the tiles be rounded at the doorway entry point from the hardwood floors in the bedroom into the marble floor in the bathroom?
Any suggestions, much appreciated!
Yes, the can be rounded, or angled, to relieve the transition. They can also be polished if the rounded edge will show. You might need to get that professionally done as it requires special equipment and polishing pads that DIY’ers probably won’t have.
What’s the recommended way to install natural stone pencil trim/ edging for our kitchen backsplash? If I use mortar I’m worried about seeing the mortar underneath the trim against the wall which wouldn’t be a clean look. Can I use tile adhesive so I can press the trim firmly against the wall? If I use mortar, should I use a thin bead of color matching caulk to hide any exposed mortar?
Thank you.
When you push the liner to the wall it might make some of the mortar show on top or underneath. I would just clean the excess off with a small bristle brush and a wet sponge.
Hello- We are about to remodel out bathroom and trying to lockdown out trim method. We’ve found a 2″ x 8″ Bright White Subway Tile we like. But we’re having issues finding anything to cap it with. The plan is for it to go up the wall about 45″. Would there be anything wrong with not capping it? Could we just go 2″ x 8″ all the way up the wall and not use any edge or cap pieces?
I see several fireplace questions but not this one specifically…I would like to install ledgestone tiles around the fireplace. In order to do so I would need a cement board backer which will bring the wall out beyond the fireplace. Any ideas on how to finish that edge or blend it into the fireplace. I could remove the drywall and just use cement board instead but was looking for an alternative to that. Because the ledgestone has a “ragged” profile, I’m not sure schlueter would work. Other suggestions?
You can do it however you like but I would take a look at the edge. Some of the glazed tiles have a red body that would really stand out. Additionally, whenever I see an unfinished edge it always looks, to me, like someone was cutting corners. They make trim for a reason.
But you’re the customer and if you like the look then I don’t see a problem.
If you’re trying to not remove the drywall then installing 1/4 inch cement board or Hardibacker over the wall would probably be the way to go. You’d probably want to thinset it to the wall.
Other than simply putting grout or type S mortar (like bricks) in that gap I’m not really sure of another alternative.
What do you recommend to finish an open edge of herringbone tile?
Hi DYITileGuy,
We plan on tiling our kitchen with 3×9 glass subway tiles.
With the window sill, casing (vertical), etc….we have many edges to trim.
What is your recommendation to trim–still with glass tile–but ensure it will stand up to kitchen use without making the entire tile design too busy? Do you have any examples?
Thanks!
Mike
You could cut a piece of the tile that you are using and run it square, up & down, on the edge. Or use one of the options listed in this post.
If you are going to be setting things on the glass then I think it could get scratched up. You’ll have to check the glass tile that you have. Otherwise, I’ve outlined several options in this post and you could consider using the countertop material on the sill or a wood sill piece.
Hi DIYTileGuy
Loving all the posts and replies, really gives good ideas. I am a DIYer and am laying 5mm mosaic floor tiles on a small stepped area. I have a 12.5mm aluminium trim to finish off the step. I think to bring the 5mm tiles up flush with the trim edge is to pile on additional adhesive under the mosaic’s or is there something else I should consider? Thanks.
I’m not sure what you are tiling over but if you can add another layer of backer board then I think that would be the easiest. Even if you are going over concrete you could add one of the foam boards like Wedi or Schluter. More mortar isn’t really the best way to do it.
I’m having my tile installed and my contractor insists on using the metal edge. And I honestly don’t like the look at all. I like raw edges. My master bath has raw edges and I don’t think about them when I go in that bathroom. However, I know that silver trim would make me have regrets for years. What is wrong with having no bullnose?
It’s a no-no in the tile world. To a professional tiler, it always looks bad. But, if that’s the look that you like then he should do it the way that you want.
We just had a bathroom remodel done, and the remodeler suggested we put chrome Schluter trim around our black tile to match our chrome fixtures. It doesn’t look bad, but personally, I just don’t like it. I wanted an entire “stone” look, not a metal look. It would be a nightmare to remove the schluter trim, so just wondering, can stone trim be somehow put over top of the schluter metal?
It wouldn’t be practical to put stone trim around metal Schluter trim if you already know that you dont’ want it. Why not just put the stone trim on without the metal?
Alternatively, they have black trim available as opposed to the chrome. So, that’s something to consider.
i have the same situation as Amy. (tears) How does one remove (or “fix”) the metal trim, which by the way has dangerously sharp edges that contractor has tried to address (buff down, smooth out) but to no avail. Removing it does seem impossible without ripping out the installed tile. Frankly, i can barely stand to look at the job. I only want marble or natural stone look. My bath is all white, with soft grey marble giant rectangular wall tiles. The edges are unfinished (I stood firm and insisted that I did not want that metal strip stuff anywhere, but a 2ft section had already been done in the metal edging. Sadly, the rest of the tile was left unfinished). Consequently, some of unfinished tile is not flushed against the wall, so gaps are present and it’s uneven. (The other work is exceptional and beautifully done.) Hence, the gaps and unevenness also need to be addressed. I am a complete non-DIYer, complete ROOKIE, with no tools!! But I’m an artist and would like to take a stab at trimming off the edge of the tile, to give it a beautiful, elegant finished edge. I cant do grouting. Searching the web is a black hole because I have no idea what they are talking about, with the except of your page. Any help/tips/references/recommendations you could provide, I welcome with joy!!!! Thanks for this post. Very helpful and inspiring info!!!!
I just realized that I misread Amy’s comment and that she already has the metal installed. But, in your case, the sharp edges should be filed down. Otherwise, the metal is very difficult to remove and would almost certainly mean replacing the tiles that it is touching.
Something that both you and Amy could try is to spray paint the metal. It’s not the most durable finish but it’s an option. That’s about the only thing I can think of other than removal of the tile.
My apologies Amy. I misread your comment. The only solution that I can think of is to spray paint the metal. It’s not a very durable finish but it is an option.
I’m installing 3X6 ceramic subway tile with a 1/2 inch pencil liner placed vertically as the edge. Is it easier to install the pencil liner first, or at the end? It needs to line up vertically with the end of the cabinet and the counter.
I usually do it last and draw a line for the tile to stop. But if it’s one vertical line and doesn’t return into the cabinets at the top then I don’t see any reason it couldn’t be done first either.
Thanks for your help. I’m using 1/2 X 12 inch ceramic pencil liner. Can I butt the ends together, or do I have to have grout lines between them?
They should have a small gap in between them
I have an arched window in my shower that I’m tiling. The window is 34 in diameter in a half moon shape. My current plan is to cut bullnose tiles into 3 in strips and use them on the sill side and the 12×24 field tiles will be cut around the window. This results in 1/8 in grout tiles between field tiles and the bullnose, and grout lines will be on front view. Also, the bullnose is width is 3 inch and the sill is ~3.5 in, so I’ll have about another 3inx1in tile behind each of the bullnose tile. I’m trying to think of any other approach, which can eliminate the grout lines in front of the window and also the 1in x 3in tiles behind each bullnose. This is a remodel and window edges are not perfect, so I’m concerned I will not end up with a nice looking 1/8inch grout line around the window. The other option is to use a schluter radius edge, about which I can’t find much information online, other that those from schluter’s website. How good of a profile can I create by curving the radius trim to match the arch window. Also, if I go the schluter trim route, should I tile the sill side and then curve the trim and then install the field tile, or curve the trim at a slightly lower radius than the window (3/8 in tile width + 1/8 in thinset width), install the trim and wall tiles, and then fill in the sill side with tile strips? Finally, which method would be easier for a first time diy’er and is there any other approach for this situation? Thanks.
A third option would be to run the bullnose on the outside of the window and run field tiles on the sill which would be able to reach the whole sill. This would give a “picture-frame” look and put the 1/8 inch grout joint on the sill-side of the corner.
For the Schluter radius, you can get a clean, consistent edge. I usually do the wall first then install the Schluter metal and sill pieces second. But, during this process, I would constantly be checking the sill pieces to make sure they fit before the wall pieces dry.
It’s a challenging installation for any skill level but I would tend to give the Schluter route a slight edge in being the easiest with the third option that I mentioned being most difficult.
Thank you for the help. This is the kind of information I was looking for. I’ll probably go the schluter route, and hope I don’t waste the profile while bending it into the curve. Picture framing seems like a lot of cuts, especially if I’d like to maintain the curve on both edges of the frame. I also thought about using a color matched marble on the sill side, which gets rid of the smaller pieces behind the bullnose, but it doesn’t solve all the problems and introduces a new material.
The Schluter radius piece comes with the reliefs so it bends probably easier than you would think. You still have to be careful with it though.
I’m looking at a shower remodel using a white wall tile with a bit of a profile- like a wave. You can see it at: tinyurl.com/yz5de4x6
We love the tile, but it’s a problem for the planned frameless glass wall, plus what to do about hiding the edges. The edge of the tiles are cut, and are an easily visible tan color. I was thinking about using subway tile on the shower curb, and just running it up the wall to give the glass a flatter place to seal up against. But I still have those darned edges that will stick up proud of the subway tile by 1/8″ to 3/32″.
Any suggestions? Can I get the edges of the tiles glazed/fired white? Thank you!
Most people use the metal profiles that I talk about in this post for the edges of that tile. Additionally, I would talk with the glass company prior to committing to this tile but the waves shouldn’t be an issue.