Subway Tile Installation: Three Basic Tips
Subway tile- what’s not to like? It’s classic and timeless. Even in 2024, subway tile is a staple in tile design trends.
In this post, I will talk about three things that can help to get you started with your subway tile installation. These things will work for any application, whether it’s a shower, bathtub, or kitchen backsplash.
Ceramic Subway Tile: 3 Pro Installation Secrets
Layout Lines
When it comes to laying out subway tile, I always draw two vertical lines – one for each offset row.
If I were to tile the back wall of a shower or a kitchen backsplash with subway tile I would generally start with a vertical centerline.
Then off of the centerline, I would draw the offset line. So for a typical 3×6 subway tile, these two lines will be 3 inches apart.
However, for 3×6 subway tile, I usually draw the lines either 9 or 15 inches apart. Why? So I can get a trowel in between the lines.
This allows me to trowel thinset on the wall without covering up the lines with the mortar. You can draw your lines 3 inches apart but you’ll have to back butter thinset on half the tile before you install it.
Further, if your centering layout just isn’t working out then check out my post on quartering tile layout. That might be just what you need to make your subway tile work out properly.
Finally, if you want a real challenge, consider laying them out in a herringbone pattern.
Bullnose Trim for Subway Tiles
edit: As of the original writing of this post, Home Depot now carries the “Restore” line which is exclusive to their store. I compared tiles from each line and found the shading to be slightly off which means it’s probably not a good idea to mix & match them any longer.
Many people buy their white 3×6 subway tile at big box stores where the trim options can be limited. For instance, the 3×6 subway tile that Home Depot carries only comes with trim tile in a 2×6 bullnose tile and a 2×2 out corner.
However, Daltile makes some other options (“Trim” tab at the bottom of this page) in a similar 3×6 white tile (color 0100).
They make a 3×6 tile where the three-inch end is bullnosed. They also make a 3×6 tile where the six-inch side is bullnosed.
This allows you to keep the pattern going out to the edge of the wall rather than break the pattern with a 2×6 bullnose tile.
Tired of Bullnose Tile Trim? Here’s 5 Tile Edge Trim Alternatives
I don’t think Dal sells to the general public so you’ll probably have to order from a specialty tile store or maybe special order from Home Depot. But the 3×6 white subway tile is very popular and comes with many different trim options.
Carrying the Pattern Through a Corner
Generally speaking, when you come to the end of a wall and you want the subway tile installation to look like it “wraps”, or “folds”, onto the next wall.
A 3-sided shower for example: You would typically center the back wall so the cuts are even on both sides. Then you want the inside corner to look like the tile “continues” onto both side walls.
One way of doing this is to take the actual pieces that you cut off and put those on the next wall. Then the cuts would be exactly like the subway tile pattern continues.
Most of the time you’ll want whole/half bullnose tiles on the exposed end of the wall. So you can layout the rows so that the big tile from the end wall meets up with the small tile on the back wall and vice versa.
Lay it out ahead of time and choose whichever way looks the best. Sometimes it’s right in the middle so that neither option looks good. We’ll cover that problem in the next post.
This post is just to offer some basic subway tile installation tips. The next post will cover some pro tips for subway tiles. Let me know what questions that you have in the comments below.
Ceramic Subway Tile: 3 Pro Installation Secrets
To know how to calculate the square feet for tile needed check out this post.
I want to install beveled subway tile backsplash in my kitchen. What do I do about gap around outlet cover due to bevel?
I don’t want a gap to show when viewing from the side.
What most people do is fill in the sides with grout or caulk. You could also frame each outlet in marble or something so that the outlet cover sits flat on something.
I’m doing a subway tile in my 3 wall shower, but there is a bench. I’m trying to figure out how to make it look like the tile wraps around the corners without messing up the lines on the wall where the bench is. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!
Typically, I will make the main wall corners wrap and then try and make the bench look as good as possible.
Sometimes sacrifices have to be made. But sometimes you can change the bench to work for the layout. Just do the best that you can.
i’m doing a kitchen back splash which has a window with a rounded corners. the person i’m doing it for is using white 3×6 white beveled tile. what options do i have going around the corners?
I think your best option would be to 3-piece it. Put in a small 3/4-7/8 inch cut on the corner with 22.5 degree miters.
I just posted a photo on my Twitter account to show what this looks like. The tile isn’t beveled but it’s the same concept for beveled tiles.
When you get to the inside corners of a three wall bath surround , how much gap do you leave between the wall and the last tile on either side of the corner using 1/8th spacers? Thanks!! Ray
The correct answer is 1/8 inch but, personally, I do narrow that up if the grout joints are thinner. A gap is necessary, though.
Whatever happened to subway tiles that had a notch to butt them together? I like that fine line of grout. Home Depot and Lowe’s sell tiles without that notch… I fear if I butt them together the grout will not get in any nook and cranny not covered by the thin set. Are these ok to use or I am going to have to do 1/8 spacers?
Last time I looked the subway tile available at Home Depot still has the lug (used to be lugs) on them. Lowes carries a similar product and I would think that theirs has it too.
The lug is now continuous along the entire length of the tile. It does make for a tight joint but butting the tiles is an acceptable way of installing them.
[See Step 2: Layout in this document found on Daltile’s website)
https://daltile.com/inspiration-and-tips/tips-and-resources/tips-and-resources/installation-tips/installing-wall-and-countertop-tile
However, there’s nothing wrong with increasing the spacing and I think your grout options would be limited to nonsanded grout. If you wanted to use something like an epoxy grout then I would increase the spacing just a bit.
I am DIYing my tile backsplash. The tile is 2×6″ Sonoma Stellar tile. Grout lines will be 1/8″. The tile will need to go around an inner corner since its an L-shaped kitchen. I’ve laid it out using your 1/4, 3/4 pattern starting at the inner corner. This worked well because there are no tiny slivers around windows or at the end of the run.
I have a question though about how to arrange the tiles in the inner corner where the 2 walls meet. Does one tile butt up against the wall and then the “wrapping” tile goes up against that tile with a 1/8″ spacer in between? Or do you leave a small space in the corner that you fill with caulk and then just have the 2 tiles meet just slightly away from the corner? Or do you miter the tiles so that they fit together (or with a 1/8″ grout line?). I dont know what is the right thing to do here.
Thanks!
Hey while you’re at it, do you know what I should be using to mark this tile when I need to cut it? It stains from regular pencil!
The proper way is to run one wall past with 1/8″ gap between the tile and the wall. Then run the other wall into it and leave 1/8″ gap between the tiles.
Sometimes the shape of the tiles will dictate that you do it differently. For instance, with beveled subway tile you can’t butt one tile into another because of the shape of the bevel (unless you want to cope (cut) around the bevel). In this case, mitering the tiles is the better way to go. You still want a gap, though.
Sounds like a tough one. A really sharp pencil with small marks might still work. They also make wax crayons that might do the job. I’ve never cared for these as the tips always seem too fat and they need to be sharpened too often.
Also, you could put a piece of blue or green painters tape on the tile and mark on that. The tile will have to be dry and sometimes the tape will want to come off with a wet saw but otherwise it works.
Hi, looking to install a 3″ by 12″ ceramic tile as my kitchen backsplash. Any recommended trowel size of this large subway tile?
1/4 x 1/4 square notch or maybe a 1/4 x 3/8. Depends on the tile, substrate, mortar, etc.
Do you know if American Olean subway tile from Lowe’s has the same option of special ordering? They only have 2×6 bullnose in store. I wanted to not use bullnose at all for my wainscoting in the bathroom to keep it uniform but my contractor thinks that it will look unfinished. I think the tile edge isn’t bad at all and would probably look fine but I’m torn on what to do. I cannot find a match to their ‘glossy white’ color anywhere. And I’m not digging the Schluter trim either which everyone suggests. Have you ever used just the 3×6 with no trim?
I wouldn’t use it with no trim but your question about the American Olean tile is something that I’ve been curious about myself being as AO and Daltile (Home Depot’s brand) are owned by the same parent company- Marazzi.
You might try to visit a tile showroom somewhere and see if they can find out more. Also, if you have an AO distributor in your area you might call and ask them. They won’t sell to the public but they will know about their own lines of tile.
I have a bunch of Daltile Restore 3×6 that I’m using. Do you know of a matching 3″ bullnose tile I could use? Home Depot only has the 2×6″ bullnose as you noted. I see the 3″ bullnose in some of their other lines but not sure if it will match the “restore” line.
I haven’t heard of the Restore line but after a quick Googling it appears that it’s something that is exclusive to Home Depot. My guess is that Dal is rebranding their same subway tile for HD.
Your best option would probably be to bring your tile down to a Daltile showroom and see if they can match the color. Rittenhouse is what Daltile calls their 3×6 line. It used to be color #100 that matched the Home Depot gloss white.
My tiler is butting 3×6 bullnose against each other as outer corner pieces where two walls come together. The resulting grout line going up the wall is not straight. Is it me, or isn’t there a corner tiles that can accomplish this and look CORRECT? Is it time to get a new tiler?
I would like the best advice for the current situation. Currently have a new mortar bed installed. Here is how its set up-
Sub floor, pitched plywood over sub floor, custom fiberglass over pitched plywood, regard over fiberglass, mortar bed on top of regard.
I was planning on regarding the wall, here is the question – Would you also regard the motor bed for extra protection ?
So is the tile person putting two bullnose pieces on the corner? Normally, one piece will round into a field tile (normal non-trim) piece.
If both pieces come together then that doesn’t sound right to me and seems like a waste of material.
If he’s mitering the pieces then that’s different. But either way, the line should be reasonable straight.
No, I wouldn’t. Your shower is either waterproof or not. Adding an additional layer of waterproofing over the top can have unintended consequences. I would flood test your shower by plugging the drain and filling it up with water and letting it sit for one-day minimum. Then check the water level.
If the flood test checks out then you can feel ok about moving forward.
I am remodeling an old bathroom . After removing the plaster walls, I have 66 1/2 inches between walls for a new 66 in tub. Are there options besides adding 2 layers of drywall or concrete board on one side of the tub?
First, I would confirm the rough in size. If the rough in is, indeed, supposed to be 66 inches then the only thing that can be done is to fur the wall or the 1/2 inch.
Can you split the difference and have the backer board stuck out past the flange on both sides? If not, you’ll have to favor one side or the other.
Hi I used custom blend non modified thin set mortar gray in color for my tile. Then i used white grout which is now turning gray from the mortar bleeding thru. Is there anything i can use to stop the mortar color from bleeding thru. Different color of grout is not an option. Any suggestions? Thanks
I’m wondering if the gray thinset is too close to the surface of the grout joint? You might try scraping down the mortar and grout completely out of the grout joint then regrout.
Sorry to say that you’ve learned the hard way why white thinset is a great choice for white tile and white grout.
Hello,
I am using the 3×6 American Olean Bright Series subway tile for the shower (this is the tile we are using :https://www.lowes.com/pd/American-Olean-Starting-Line-Gloss-White-Ceramic-Subway-Tile-Common-3-in-x-6-in-Actual-3-in-x-6-in/3083627).
I am able to locate the 3×6 bullnose on the 6in side but I have having troubles locating the 3×6 in bullnose on the 3in side. Would changing it to the Daltile 3in 3×6 bullnose make a huge difference in color?
I’m not sure how closely Daltile will match tile at Lowe’s.
I think Lowe’s carries tile from American Olean? If so, you should be able to check the closest American Olean showroom and see if they carry the bullnose options that you are looking for.
I am installing subway tile for a backsplash in our kitchen. When we removed the old cabinets we knew there was a chimney in one corner. After removing the old cabinet it wasn’t exposed brick but mortared over the brick and the exposed corner of the chimney is now a sharp radius. The only solution I can think of is to go ahead and frame this in to have a square corner – any options on tile over a radius?
After removing the cabinets in the kitchen of our 110 year old house it exposed plaster walls. That is why they used so much wallpaper in that there are visible weaves in the finish. Also at one time some of the plaster was removed and replaced with drywall. the joints are not smooth or even in some. How flat a surface is required to install the tile?
Well, I can quote industry standards which are: Not more than 1/4 inch deviation in 10ft and not more than 1/16th inch in 12 inches.
As a general rule of thumb, the flatter the walls are the smoother things will go and the better it will look. I don’t know if you can fill in the valleys and dips with a feather finish flattening product, or not?
If you are using subway tile then the overlapping tiles really need a flat surface to look right. The rows just won’t “roll” like it would if the tiles were lined up.
Naturally, you don’t want the tile to roll with the substrate but it’s impossible to do with subway tile.
I would think framing it in would be a good option. It is possible to stick tile directly to the mortar but then tying it into the rest of the wall sounds difficult. Maybe a framing in a 45 degree angle would be an option?
I want to install subway tile as a tub/shower surround. Is it okay to use ceramic tile versus porcelain in a shower since ceramic has a higher water absorption value? Thanks.
Ceramic tile usually has a glaze on it and it’s ok for well areas as long as the shower is properly built.
But you should go with a reputable manufacturer and check if they approve the tile for wet applications.
I have seen ceramic subway tile that shouldn’t be installed in a shower.
Thanks for all the advice, for myself and all past questions you’ve answered.
I’m putting up beveled subway tile from Home Depot for my kitchen backsplash. One run of the wall will require ending the tile in the middle of the wall as it would be silly to extend to the edge of the wall. How do I make ending beveled tile on a flat open space look right? I bought some of the 2×6 bullnose pieces but I think they’ll look weird. I also purchased tile trim…but i’m not sure how that will look with the beveled tile cut. Any advise?
thanks!
With beveled tile, you want the trim to be thick enough to cover the thicker part of the tile.
So it works best if you can end both rows with the thick edge rather than ending with both thin and thick rows.
Other than that, what you choose to trim it with can vary. Maybe bullnose; maybe a metal profile.
Sometimes when ending the backsplash in the middle, like you’re talking about, I’ve just dropped the full height part of the splash down to about 6 inches and carried it the rest of the way like that.
Just an idea.
Where did you find the gloss white 3×6 bullnose on the 6 inch side? . The only one Lowe’s carries for AO is Ice white. It is not the same white.
Daltile makes a 6 inch bullnose for Home Depot’s Daltile. At least they used to before Home Depot starting carrying the “Restore” line which they sell exclusively.
I’m not sure what options are available for American Olean tile but you could contact an AO distributor to find out.
When tiling a bathroom wall with knock down texture on it, do I need to use anything to smooth out the wall or can I just mortar directly onto the wall?
Mortar can go directly on the wall. The wall should be painted, or primed, first.
We hired a tile guy to install subway tile in our kitchen. We decided to tile up to the ceiling on our back wall. We realize now out tile guy does not have a lot of experience tiling and have found problems including not using spacers, as an example. He has redone everything and is using spacers now after showing him his mistake. Yesterday, he started tiling around the windows so now we have issues with his right angle cuts. He made all of the tiles flush with the corner and is then putting another tile flush with other angle. This leaves a sizable gap at the angle. He claims the grout will fill in and he can also caulk at the angle/joint. I’m thinking he has taken a short cut and the job will look unprofessional when finished. Shouldn’t he miter the corner tiles or is that something most tilers don’t do? What do you think? Thanks for your response.
I’m not 100% sure I understand the situation but it sounds like you think he should picture frame around the windows? Maybe he’s just running the tile in straight rows?
If this is the case, then it’s a design decision and ideally should have been talked about beforehand. But, either way, I don’t think it’s a big deal to do one vs the other except that tile would now have to be torn out to make a change.
If I’ve misunderstood the question then please let me know and I’ll try and provide better feedback.
We have a kitchen window that bumps out. We plan to tile the surrounding wall and 3 sides of the bump out. The sill is going to match the countertop slab. The ceramic subway tile we ordered has limited bullnose options.
We are now looking into custom bullnose (thanks for the idea!) If this doesn’t work out what would be the next best option if we don’t want to introduce another type of tile? Would mitering work? You mention that it is less durable but this location would not see a lot of wear and tear.
The only other solution I could think of was trimming out the whole thing with wood, but maybe I’m missing something…
Thanks for your help!
Mitering would be a good option for that.
Since it’s a ceramic tile I don’t think you’ll find a lot of options for custom bullnosing
We are using 3×6 subway tile on our backsplash with 1/8″ spacer. The height between counter and cabinet is 17″. in the middle of these cabinets is the sink and we will extend subway tile all the way to the ceiling in this section. 5 tiles and spacers are 15 3/4. or I use 6 tiles which is 18 7/8. How do I cover the 17″ space. Do I split the difference and take half off the top and half off the bottom, or just take it off of the top of the backsplash(under the cabinet)? Thanks!
Take it off of the top. You won’t see a little cut up under the cabinet and it looks funny to cut the bottom row on a kitchen backsplash with subway tile.
Thank you for this article its great! I have a question about how to finish the outer edge in my shower. I’m running bullnose tile up the side where it meets the rest of the painted bathroom wall to create kind of a frame around the shower. I know that I grout the tile throughout the shower obviously, and have read to caulk the inside corners of the shower. But how do finish off the bullnose edge where it meets the wall? Do I caulk that little gap created by the thinset between the bullnose tile and painted wall?
I always grout the edge at the very end of bullnose but I’ve heard somewhere that it’s more proper to caulk it. If you do end up caulking it then I would stay away from 100% silicone for that particular area because you won’t get paint to stick to it.
I still think grout is best.
Having a dilema,,,My tile guy just finished tiling my tub/shower bath with the standard Home Depot Dahltile Bright White subway tile…he used the 2 by 6 matching bullnose…but now I can’t butt the continuing subway tile against the bullnose for the chair rail ….if I did this it looks odd..there is more drywall on one side than the other facing the tub….I would have liked a smooth transition…..what other options would there have been? My guy is very nice…I’m but I don’t think he didn’t realized I wanted the tile to be continuous out of the bath tub around the wall at the chair rail level. What to do?
Your link to Dahltile option is not working.
Thanks!
I’m having a hard time visualizing the problem but maybe removing some of the existing bullnose tiles and run the chair rail past? Some more details about what you are trying to accomplish would be great.
Thanks for the information about the link. It’s been updated.
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0QcKc-rzfG6HQ64PMcmg_4PPw#Marietta,_GA
…I want a subway tile chair rail on the wall coming from the tub around on the wall under the window… lining up to the vanity backsplash .. should I leave the 4″ drywall next to the bullnose and start the chair rail on the other side… I hate to scratch the whole idea but I don’t want it to look weird.
Thank you for your input.
Bonni
The way to do it is to remove the vertical row of bullnose up to the height of the chair rail. Then run the chair rail into it at that point. The vertical bullnose would start at the bottom of the chair rail (best) or, optionally, sit on top of the chair rail piece.
This will require removing the half tiles on every-other row so you can tie full tiles into the wall.
You’ll have to do some fancy scribing of the chair rail into the bottom bullnose piece for it to look the best but it would be worth it.
An optional and easier way of doing it would be to not connect your shower to the wainscot. Either start it around the corner or even further away. Maybe not wainscot every wall- just around the vanity. It saves you trying to tie into the shower. Ideally, you would layout the shower at the height of the wainscot but I don’t think that was done.
I’m using white 3×12 subway tile for my shower. The 3×12 tile I have doesn’t have a bullnose option. For the edges of the shower, we used a Schluter JOLLY finishing profile in white. We also have one 12×28 shower niche and we’re not sure how to finish the trim of the shower niche. How would you recommend finishing the trim of the shower niche? Schluter makes an option, but it doesn’t come in white and I don’t think I want to introduce metal here. What do you think?
I would think that you could use the white Jolly strip but it doesn’t sound like that’s what you want. So if you can’t find a metal (or plastic) profile then I think your best option would be the beveling option that I talked about in the post.
Alternatively you could line the inside with a solid surface product like quartz or granite.
Hello. I’m tiling a kitchen backsplash with 2×4″ tiles. There will be two inner corners. If I center these small tiles along the main wall, then it leaves only a sliver on each end (7/16″ on each side). Would I be better off starting with a whole tile on the more visible side and leaving the 7/8″ piece on the less visible side? Thank you!
Can you clarify please if a 1/8 inch gap is left after the last tile of each adjacent wall therfore there is a 1/4 inch gap in the corner? Is that correct or does only one wall left with 1/8, so a total of 1/8 in the corner?
Generally, I try to center wherever the focal point is. So if that’s behind the stove, behind the sink, then that’s what I like to go off of. Typically, I would not just center a wall if there is no focal point.
Once you find your focal point then check how the tile lays out. If you have slivers in the corner then I would shift the layout using the quarters technique that I talk about on my advanced subway tile post and also on my YouTube channel.
https://www.diytileguy.com/ceramic-subway-tile/
I apologize, but I’ve read this question several times and don’t really understand what’s being asked. You want a gap around the perimeter of the tile. It’s pretty unusual that a 1/4 inch gap would be visible on a backsplash.
Please let me know if that doesn’t answer your question.
I have subway tile backsplash in my kitchen, and when I bought a new over the range microwave, a partial row of tiles had to be removed, creating a 3/4” gap. Would you recommend a 1/2” trim tile so that the grout can have room 1/8” on each side? Or should I take this opportunity to install bull nose? The gap is right below the microwave/hood. Thank you!
I wouldn’t think that you would need bullnose for that spot but I can’t see what your dealing with.
I think either solution is fine. Putting tile in there sounds like a good idea to me.
I’ll be installing 3×6 subway in my kitchecn. I want to center the tiles over my sink area so I think I want to srat there correct? When I center there, I end up with a full tile as the last tile in the corner and therefore can’t achieve a “wrapped” look in the corner. Can you suggest anything that will result in me being able to center thesink area and achieve a wrapped look in the corner? I wan thinking of cutting the 2nd and 3rd to last tiles by 3/4 of an inch each so that my last tile in the first row would be just 4.5 inches versus 6 and use the 1.5 inch piece on the adjacent wall. Will that look bad? Can you suggest anything other method so that I can both center over the sink and achieve a wrapped look in the corner?
Sorry. When I first asked the question I thought you ran the tile on each wall to within 1/8th inch of the adjacent wall and figured doing so would leave a total of 1/4 inch in the corner. Since asking the question, a friend told me that I should run tile on the first wall to within 1/8 inch of the adjacent wall and caulk it; then run the last tile on the adjacent wall to within 1/8 inch of the face of the tile on the first wall and caulk between the tiles. Is this right?
Yes. That sounds correct. In fact, you don’t have to caulk between the first row ad the wall- only between the tile .
I am doing 3″x6″ Datile Subway Backsplash that my mom (and apparently by looks at it every single other girl in America these days) for the first time, we have a approx. 6″ granite counter lip that runs up the wall before the drywall area that I’m dying the backsplash, at the very bottom edge against this stone edge how much of a space do I want to plan /need, the rest of it is the built in 16th spacer the tiles are designed for but I’ve read this edge needs to be at least 1/8 “expansion gap and full that all with grout ? Should I just butt the tile up against it and the 16th gap just not fill this bottom edge with grout and just caulk it or something? Thanks for the pictures and helpful information, cole
1/8 inch is recommended for expansion however, I’ve done 1/16th many times with subway tile so that it matches the grout joints. But 1/8 inch is by-the-book. It does need to be kept clean and filled with flexible sealant (caulk).
Doing a backsplash in a kitchen. Using a 3×6 travertine with 1/8 grout joint. Previously there was a Formica backsplash. It has been removed and there is drywall exposed that has dried adhesive on it and some small paper spots (damage from removal) exposed. Am I able to tile directly onto the drywall or do I need to put up a backer board? I was gonna use a 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/4 square notch with Custom flexbond thinset. Thanks!
For a kitchen backsplash, you’re fine tiling right over the drywall. The glue residue should be removed as that may act as a bond breaker.
I am remodeling my kitchen and using 3×12 white subway tile with white grout. What grout do you recommend using that will help us to keep it white and not look dirty? Will we need to seal the grout? If so, what sealer is recommended?
Thanks!
I would recommend either an epoxy or a single-component grout. Nothing will keep it from getting dirty but these grouts allow it to stay white once it’s cleaned. If you want to use a cement grout, then I recommend either Prism, Permacolor, or Ultracolor.
I’m installing 3×6 beveled subway tile on a backsplash. Would you grout or caulk the corners?
I’m a newbie to tiling and I hope I’m not in over my head :) any other tips for beveled tile I should know about? I’m also edging with schluter. What size schluter would you use?
Your best bet will be to miter the inside corners with the beveled subway tile. For the Schluter metal, you’ll want it big enough to cover the big part of the tile.
I’m tiling a backsplash and under cabinet subway tiles 3×6, The first row was fine with 1/16 spacers and I used 17 full tiles. The next row I cut a tile in half to get the offset and placed 16 full tiles with 1/16 spacers however I was left with a 1/4 inch gap and had to resize the end tiles, also the tiles didn’t follow the half tile offset for the last part of the wall. The 3rd row which should be 17 full tiles has a gap at the end of 1/4 inch.
What am I doing wrong?
Both ends have plastic end caps which are plumb and each row is exactly the same measurement.
I have tried retiling from one end and also tiling from the middle out but it still ends up 1/4inch short, I’ve even tried expanding the gaps between the tiles but the ground line looks crap.
If each end is plumb then it could be that the countertop is out of level. Otherwise, it’s hard to diagnose. If you are unable to make it work then I would recommend starting with different end cuts instead of starting with whole/half tiles. Then you can cut the other end in to fit.
Hello! I am about to tile my backsplash using 3×9 beveled subway tile. I have a “boomerang” peninsula where the sink is set on the diagonal. This leaves me with two, 45 degree inside corners.
Do I “cope” my tile into the corners like I would with crown molding? The bevel shape (with its high and low points) throws me for a loop. Should I tile the two sides first right into the 45 degree corner, then cut 45 degrees for the center wall, and “cope” the backs of the angle cuts with a rasp?
Or am I over thinking this?
Thank you!
Kim
You can either cope or back-bevel. The beveling is a little bit easier. You’d cut a 22.5 angle off of each tile in the corner.
Hi Tile Guy,
I’m laying out my tile for a vanity backsplash. I want to tile floor to ceiling. My vanity is 48″ wide and the wall is open on one side so I was thinking somewhere between 66-72″ wide because I want the tile to show on either side of the vanity. My tile is 3 x 12, horizontal with a 3″ vertical bullnose. Of course I want to center the vanity, so I’m just wondering if its best to add all the tile together and center on the entire project or just center it on the actual wall tiles 3 x 12, and consider the bullnose like a trim piece. I’m just stumped and need to get this project started asap so any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks so much!!
This is why tile is a custom installation. Every space is different and the trick is to lay things out the best for your particular space. You just have to do the best that you can.
We are going to use subway tile for our backsplash and need a saw but do not want to spend a ton. What do you recomend?
Harbor Freight has a couple of tiles saws that get pretty good feedback. They have a small 7-inch saw for under $300 and I think you can find a 20% off coupon pretty easily. Otherwise, this saw from Amazon is under $100 and has great reviews (affiliate link, link to privacy policy). I have no experience with either of these saws.
The kind that cuts overhead is preferable to the “table saw” kind but either of those saws would fit someone on a budget.
How do You tile the outside corner of a shower curb? I have a 2 wall curb (L shaped) with an outside corner. Roughly 40” x 36”. I am using (and cutting) 12” x 12” tiles over a Schluter curb. So my top tile should be about 5 3/4” wide. Do you slope tiles on curb towards shower floor? If so, how much slope do you use? And if you do slope curb tops toward shower, how do you do the outside corner? Full 12” tile one way? If I don’t slope, I can get seam heights to match. I expect glass shower walls (enclosure) to run down middle of top tiles. I can send pictures to an email address if that will help or this does not make much sense…
Yes, you do want the curb tiles to slope to the shower and, typically, 1/8 inch of slope is perfect. The rule of thumb is 1/4 inch of slope per foot when directing water to a drain.
With a right-angle curb (L-shaped, or any angle, really), the tiles that are on each side of the angle would have a 45-degree angle on them. In other words, you’ll have to have a grout joint that goes from the outside corner to the inside corner. A miter. That’s how you break the tiles so that they slope properly towards the shower.
Hi I’m doing my first DIY subway tile backsplash. The tile my wife chose gets slightly narrower in the middle. If I stack the tile with one tile halfway across the tile below and above it i don’t think it’ll look right. It seems like most subway tile is just a rectangle, straight lines. Is there something special that I need to do to handle this kind of tile.
Wish I could post a picture as I’m having a hard time describing what I have here. You can see the tile on the manufacturer’s website https://www.winchestertiles.com/Products?keyword=CLHA0903&page=1
Thanks!
I’m not real clear on what your question is but those look like handmade tile so the imperfect shapes are part of the charm. Make sure you have at least 1/16th of an inch spacing and embrace the unevenness.
I am tiling around the top of a shower surround with 3 x 6 subway tile with a rope in the middle. It’s about 25″ from the top of the surround to the ceiling. The tile will dead end where the surround stops on each side wall. I bought schluter for the ends. However, when I put the piece of schluter from the top of the surround to the ceiling, the wall is bowed slightly so the schluter does not sit flat against the wall. I think it is where the drywall had to be built up to cover the surround lip that gets screwed to the wall. Any suggestions on how to make it sit flat against the wall? I’m not sure if there is wood behind that section of the wall. If there is, perhaps a couple of screws would work?
If it’s not too late, I would try to skim coat some Mapei Planipatch (from Lowes or Floor and Decor) or Henry’s Feather finish (from Home Depot) on the wall to flatten it out. Take a stick that’s about 24 inches long and run it from top-to-bottom. Thinset can work for this too but it’s not really the recommended product.
I don’t think you’re going to be able to cut the wall board without making a lot more work. If you wanted to, you could remove the wallboard to the ceiling and redo it where the tile goes. But you’ll have to fill in the flange area that’s holding the wallboard out.
Is it possible to use sink rail trim tile as decorative crown molding on top of shower wall Where tiled wall meets the ceiling-or does it need to be flush? Could I caulk gap between shower wall and the ceiling? Thanks
Are you talking about the metal trim? I’ve never tried it but if it works and you like it then I say go for it!