Avoid These 3 DIY Tile Installation Products
There’s only so many places to shop for DIY tile installation products. Big box hardware stores are among the best options. But no matter where you go there’s going to be good products and not-so-good products.
The trap of the box stores is that they want to make their products as appealing as possible. Unfortunately this means pushing some of their worst installation products onto the DIY’er. They’re advertised as EASY and SIMPLE. And why do you buy them? Because they’re advertised as EASY and SIMPLE!
Below are 3 DIY tile installation products that I recommend you avoid. I provide alternatives to purchase instead. These alternatives are not easier or simpler but they are much better.
Tile Mastic and Premixed Thinset
It’s the perfect wall tile adhesive! But wait…unfortunately it’s not all roses. I know on the back of the bucket they make many promises- can be used on floors, in showers, big tiles, etc. But when it comes to examining the products listed limitations and the actual steps of what you want to do with it you’re going find that it’s a good product for most of your projects.
Sometime in the future I’ll do a more in depth post about the “finer” points of ceramic tile mastic- but for now, my recommendation is don’t use.
Use instead: Lightweight tile mortar
The lightweight tile thinsets are great for wall tile applications. Not only do they hold small tiles on walls but big tiles too.
For more information on thinset mortars see these posts below:
Thinset Decoded: Which Thinset to use | Infographic
Thinset Decoded: A buyers guide to purchasing the right tile adhesive
Tile Adhesive Mats
I understand the appeal of peel and stick tiling. No mixing mortar-no making big messes. But peel and stick sheets is simply cutting corners.
The tiles have to have flat backs- something most tiles don’t have. You have to grout them right away because apparently grout helps hold them to the wall.
One company hangs weights from the tiles to show how strong things are but then curiously has a requirement of no tiles over 5lbs? Another company encourages the use of these mats in wet environments. UGH! I’ve heard enough. Stay away!
Use instead: thinset mortar. In a wet area use a waterproof membrane.
Don’t Buy Tile from a Big Box Store Until You Read This
Acrylic Latex Caulk
I’ve talked about this before but latex caulk is nearly worthless for use with tile. The product will crack, mold, and dry out over time. It’s something that will constantly have to be redone. The good news is that it’s easy to use!
Don’t use anything that says acrylic, latex, siliconized, paintable, or cleans up with water.
Use instead: 100% silicone caulk. Color matched 100% silicone caulks are available in an assortment of colors just like acrylic caulks. I’m even starting to see some of them at the box stores these days.
For tips on how to caulk with 100% silicone caulk watch the video in this post:
Silicone Caulk: How to Caulk a Bathtub or a Shower
If you have any experience with the above products I’d be interested to hear your experiences- good or bad. Please share in the comments below.
Val says
Hello,
I’m having a new home built and have found tile for all the bathrooms, laundry room, etc. that I like at The Tile Shop. The tile is only warrantied if I have the installer use their adhesive and grout that the Tile Shop sells — Proflex Latex Fortified Thinset Mortar, ProLastic Liquid, ProLastic Powder, Flexible Admixture, and the unsanded and sanded Pro Grout. Our contractor told me that the tile installer can provide their own adhesive and grout. My dilemma is what is the best approach: 1) Should I trust the installer to use a high quality adhesive and grout? Or is it best that I get my own to ensure that it’s high quality. 2) Are the Tile Shop products a high quality? The ProLastic Liquid is $50 for 2 gallons, and the powder is $20 for a 50lb. bag. 3) Do installers have their favorite materials that they are used to using and it’s best to not change things on them? I’d love to know your thoughts on this. Thank you for your very informative blog.
diy tile guy says
We don’t have The Tile Shop up here in the Seattle area do I really don’t have any idea of what their system is.
But if the warranty works as you state and you want to keep that warranty in place then it’s probably best to use those products that will do that.
But keep in mind that if there’s a problem the contractor can now say “it’s not my problem, it’s the tile shop fault.” And then the tile shop can basically do the same thing.
So it’s probably a good idea to have all parties understand who carries what responsibility BEFORE proceeding with the installation.
Otherwise you may consider having the contractor supply everything and then the finger only points in one direction when there’s an issue.
Val says
Thank you so much! I appreciate all your help. Is there a type of adhesive that tile installers use that saves them money but isn’t desirable for the customer? I just want to be aware if they are going to use something that is considered not top quality.
diy tile guy says
Yes, there’s different kinds of mortar and every manufacturer carries thinset in different price points and for different applications.
The kind of mortar to use depends on what’s being installed and where it’s being installed.
So, yes, it’s common for installers to use the wrong adhesive. But it’s impossible for me to list all of the wrong adhesives that are out there. Especially when I don’t even know what’s being installed.
I do have a post that shows a flow chart for thinset. You may find that helpful.
But it’s hard to know what thinset your installer will bring out, what brand they prefer, and what product is being installed in what application.
The best thing that you can do is either provide the recommended thinset and/or hire a knowledgeable and competent installer for the project.
Val says
Thank you so much!! I appreciate your time with this.
Coco says
Hi there! Happy Thanksgiving!! I have a 25 sq ft bathroom with 1/4 inch mosaic square concrete tiles set on concrete mortar with said concrete as grout..this building is about 63 years old. The grout lines are beyond discolored and are receding so I want to retile. However it’s cost prohibitive in NYC for me to remove the old tiles and replace. I’ve bought 12×12 black granite tiles and have a tiler in mind to install them onto the old tiles in 2 weeks. Is a modified thinset the best to use in this case?
diy tile guy says
Yes, modified is what you would want. Ideally, you would want one that says “ANSI 118.4” at a minimum. Should be a mortar rated for large and heavy tiles (LFT or LHT) and using a bonding primer like Eco Prim Grip from Mapei would be a good idea.
LEO says
I AM DOING A SECOND FLOOR BATHROOM REMODEL ,I REMOVED OLD 1900’S TILE (ABOUT 2000LBS OF STUFF), SISTER THE JOISTS WITH 2 BY 10’S BY 13′ SCREWED TO THE OLD ONES ,LAID 3/4″ PLYWOOD OVER THAT AND 1/2″ PLYWOOD ON TOP. I WANT TO TILE WITH 12″ BY 24″ CERAMIC TILE AND EPOXY GROUT. A VERY HEAVY CLAWFOOT TUB WILL GO BACK ON THE FURTHER END OF THE 6 BY12 BATHROOM. A TECHNICIAN FROM A BIG TILE PRODUCTS COMPANY TOLD ME TO WAIT 7 TO 10 DAYS AFTER THE TILE IS INSTALLED ,PUT THE TUB BACK,FILL IT WITH WATER AND GROUT THEN. THE PROBLEM IS THERE IS NO ROOM TO WORK AROUND THE TUB ,MAYBE THE FRONT END OF IT ,DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS? HIS ADVISE SOUNDS LOGICAL BUT IS HARD TO IMPLEMENT,WHAT DO YOU THINK?
diy tile guy says
I guess it depends on what the reason for installing the tub before grouting is? If this technician is a representative of the products that you are using and their advice is official and on the record then I would do as they’ve requested. But I don’t understand how installing the tub prior to grout affects the grouting process other than making it more difficult to work around.
I feel like there’s more to this story.