I know what you are thinking: Stain-proof grout has over-promise and under-deliver written all over it.
But these grouts are the best-performing grouts when it comes to absorbency. They’re not cementitious grouts so they don’t fade over time, they don’t need to be sealed, they are color consistent, and non-porous.
Stain Proof grouts like epoxy and urethane
As far as installation, this kind of grout is the most difficult to install, is the most expensive, and usually takes the most time to install. Additionally, they can be difficult to clean up during the installation and a nightmare to clean up after installation.
Also, keep in mind these grouts are not dirt-proof or cleaning-proof. But when cleaned, the whites turn back to white and not some sort of dingy form of white.
So, below are the different types of grouts that are considered to be “stain-proof.”
Epoxy
Probably the toughest of any kind of grout, stain-proof or otherwise. Epoxies are extremely hard and durable.
They are used in commercial kitchens and can be exposed to the harshest environments. They never need to be sealed. Typically, they work for grout joints 1/16th-1/2 inch.
These are the most difficult to install and the most difficult to clean after the installation if something was missed or not washed thoroughly.
Another characteristic of epoxy grout is that it must be mixed in full batches and spread all at once.
If you don’t move quickly enough you will waste some of the expensive product or maybe spread too big of an area and not be able to get it all cleaned before it sets up.
Additionally, they also can yellow in UV light (sunlight). My personal experience is that they are the most difficult kind of grout to get “full in the joint”. They typically want to wash down too far and create too deep of a grout joint.
All the big companies make epoxy grout but the most popular residential epoxy is Spectralock by Laticrete. Make sure to get Spectralock Pro Premium. It makes a difference.
Additionally, I’ve used a bit of Ardex WA epoxy grout and have been impressed with it so far.
Cleaning Epoxy Grout Haze
After installing an epoxy grout, sometimes there might be a grout “haze” over the tile. You’ll want to avoid this if possible by being diligent when installing and washing the grout.
However, if you do have this haze in spots, it’s always nice to have a quart of epoxy grout remover on hand. Obviously, Laticrete will recommend their own Stonetech Epoxy Grout Haze cleaner but Miracle Sealants has a good one also.
Epoxy Grout additives
Laticrete makes an additive that can be added to Spectralock Epoxy grout. They call it “Dazzle” which is Part D of the system. You would still need to purchase parts A, B, and C.
The Spectralock Dazzle additive comes in several different colors and also a Glow-in-the-Dark option.
Single component grout
The category of grout with the worst name.
The first generation of these grouts was made from urethane but the newer single component stain proof grouts are some sort of siliconized acrylic (or something, they don’t tell you exactly).
So we can’t just refer to all of them as “urethane grout” anymore.
A company called Bostik makes single-component grouts that actually are urethane-based. These include:
- Quartzlock2
- Dimension
- Starquartz (I think this is now Dimension)
- Trucolor
I talk more about Dimension at the bottom of this page.
The newer single-component grouts that are not urethane-based include:
- Fusion Pro
- Flexcolor CQ
- Spectralock 1 (not to be confused with Spectralock epoxy)
All of the single-component grouts come in a bucket that can be resealed. You don’t have to use a full batch at a time. You can use however much you want then put the lid on and stop.
Cleaning single-component grout haze
Like epoxy grouts, cleaning during installation can be an issue and Bostik makes a product called Blaze that I have found to work well for cleaning any urethane haze off of the tile. Once the grout is dry you can use this cleaner to clean up any grout haze that may have been missed during the initial cleaning.
To clean up Flexcolor CQ, Mapei recommends their Heavy Duty Stone, tile, and grout cleaner. For Fusion, CBP recommends four different cleaners. Personally, I’ve had some success with latex paint remover but the mentioned companies don’t recommend that product.
Warning!
Don’t use single-component grout for the following applications:
- pebble tile
- steam showers
- submerged installations (like fountains)
Translucent Grout
A popular choice for glass tile is translucent grout. It’s difficult to describe the effect that it has but it seems to enhance the look of glass rather than break it up.
Examples of translucent single-component grouts are:
- Bostik Dimension (formerly Starquartz)
- Mapei Flexcolor 3D
- Fusion Pro Designer Series
It used to be that translucent grout only came in the single-component category but Laticrete has recently released Spectralock Pro Premium Translucent Grout.
Unlike the single components, it only comes in one color, translucent.
Which grout do you prefer? Share your experiences with these grouts or others in the comments below.
I did a bathroom in Spectralock about 7 years ago, and that white grout was bulletproof! No gray pattern of traffic, and an immaculate in-front-of-the-toilet. You do still have to clean it, but you can!
Good feedback, Claudia. Thanks!
I’m thinking of using Fusion grout with a porcelain tile that has a lot of texture. Would that be a mistake as far as cleaning during installation?
You would want to use a product called a grout release first prior to grouting. Its a water based coating that is removed during the grouting process.
What would the best grout be for a dog kennel? Aby help be much appreciated
I would think an epoxy would be the best grout. The best stain resistance and it’s the hardest. That’s what’s used in commercial kitchens.
Is fusion grout or power grout waterproof
I don’t know about Power Grout but Fusion isn’t a cement grout so it’s not porous. So I guess that means it’s waterproof. But it can’t be used in submerged applications (swimming pools).
But I have to admit I’m afraid of why you may be asking this. Please don’t rely on the grout to do the waterproofing. It won’t work.
Hi, we have put white polished porcelain tiles down in the kitchen. I need some advice on which grout to use that is stain proof as I’m worried about spills and stuff especially if it’s curry and I don’t want it to looks dirty and shabby in time. It needs to be easy to apply and clean off as its my husband that’s doing the tilting and grouting, but if you recommend a better grout that needs professional application, then I can try and get the gouting done professionally.
Also would you advise using a sealer over the porcelain tile and grout? The tile shop said that whilst the tile is sealed it is only a basic wax factory seal and would benefit to be sealed again but I am not sure if this is a ploy for them to sell me something that I don’t actually need.
I would be really grateful for your advice
Oops, sorry, I forgot to mention, the white porcelain tiles are on the floor of the kitchen hence the need for stain proof grout
The two best stain resistant grouts are epoxy and urethane types. Epoxies are more durable and are the hardest to install. The single components, like Fusion and Flexcolor, are easier to apply but most people think they are still more difficult to apply than cement grouts.
Make sure to read the instructions on whichever grout that you choose. They typically will have instructions for light colored porcelain tile and if you need a sealer or not. Usually they recommend a grout release. This is an inexpensive product that is put on the floor prior to grouting. It helps protect the tile from staining.
We have non polished travertine tile for our back splash. The grout that connects the tile to the granite counter top is crumbling. We have no way of contacting the people who installed it. Would it be possible for us to replace it ourselves or should we get a professional? And which grout would be best to use?
I think I have good news! If you are talking about the joint between the countertop and the backsplash then this joint shouldn’t have been grouted in the first place.
What the installers should have done is to install 100% silicone sealant on this joint and all inside corner joints. The sealant is flexible so that the countertop and wall tile can flex independently of each other.
They make color matched sealants to coordinate with grout colors. You should be able to order these through a box store.
One word of caution: don’t buy a sealant that says latex, acrylic, or siliconized. It should say 100% silicone.
Here’s a link to a video that I did that shows how to apply the sealant.
https://www.diytileguy.com/silicone-caulk/
What was the/were the issues with single component grouts on shower floorsif you don’t mind me asking?
I think most of the complaints have been about the grout softening up and coming out of the joints.
Just did my very first grouting project, re-grouting my kitchen counters. White square “subway” tiles. Scraped out most of the old grout and used white Fusion Pro to re-grout. It looks *fantastic*. I am wondering if anyone has experience, like 3 years down the road, with how Fusion Pro holds up, in regards to staining or yellowing.
I’ve used quite a bit of Fusion, including the white. The feedback that I’ve received is that it still gets dirty but it will return to white when it’s cleaned.
Do you think fusion pro is ok for shower walls? I know we shouldn’t put it on a shower floor!
I think it’s fine but Fusion has turned it to be a rather controversial product for some reason. So you may get differing opinions.
But I wouldn’t, and don’t, hesitate to use it on shower walls.
Does Fusion Pro maintain it’s color? I know it’s supposed to be stain-proof, but I’m worried about the color fading as we aren’t going with white. This is for use in a bathroom that doesn’t get much sunlight, so I don’t think UV bleaching will be a problem.
Yes, and this is one of the advantages of these types of grouts. They’re not cementitious so they don’t fade over time like other cement grouts.
I’m the homeowner and we are doing the shower floor and part of the wall in pebble stones. I am getting so many different opinions on what grout to use, I’m even more confused. I want it done right and hopefully not think about it for a long tim to come. What should we use?
Either sanded cement grout or epoxy. Check for instructions for your particular pebbles as the manufacturer may have their own recommendation.
Personally, I would choose either an epoxy or a high-performance cement grout over a typical sanded grout- such as Polyblend. Examples of high-performance cement grout are Prism, Permacolor, and Ultracolor.
Whatever you do, do not use a single component grout like Fusion or Flexcolor as this is exactly the kind of grout that isn’t to be installed in pebbles. If you open the lid and it doesn’t require mixing- don’t use it on pebbles.
If you want to verify these recommendations just read the back of the box, container, or bag of grout that you are considering.
I am creating an Art Mosaic Public Art piece, designed for outdoor placement, not a typical functional flat surface. I have used a lot of glass pool tile, cut and shaped fairly small – the size of your thumbnail. Some high fired (non-porus) ceramic tile and pieces of broken Fiesta dinnerware have also been used. This means there are many height differences, even more extremely so because I have placed some tile pieces on edge to create thin lines.
The work was created on a fiberglass mesh, using Mapei polymer modified thinset for Glass to tack the tiles in place.
Then, the mesh was laid onto a Hardibacker surface to which the same Mapei Glass thinset had been applied with a notched trowel.
My question is: Though I hear that an Epoxy Grout would definitely hold the many small pieces (most are smaller than your thumbnail) in place much more firmly I have never used Epoxy grouts. I dread the thought of cleaning a sticky gummy grout from around a thousand little multi-level bits!
The Mapei Keracolor U un-sanded Grout for Glass that I have is tricky enough to clean, but at least I know this “beast” – BUT I fear that it wont be strong enough to hold the pieces- sometimes it can be brittle and bits can be chipped out -way more easily that one would like.
P.S. I saw you refer to Grout Resist! – This is new to me. While it might need to be painted onto each itty bitty piece, this still might be easier than using a Dremel tool and curse words to clean up errant grout – your thoughts, please?
And, I selected Mapei’s black grout, understanding that it might fade a bit over time vs the Epoxy, which would be more color stable – I am less concerned about color than the “grabbing power” of the grout as it surround s each piece
Mosaics have been created with cement grout for decades and have survived just fine.
I think the issue is to keep them from moving and as long as cement grout gets in between and fills the voids then I think it will function fine.
There’s no question that epoxy would perform better- especially outdoors. But the costs would be quite a bit more and I understand not wanting the first time to be on your mosaic.
Laticrete Spectralock comes in small units and Ardex’s epoxy grout can be mixed in partial batches. If you want to experiment then those might be the way to go.
Grout release is a good concept but I don’t know how you keep it out of the grout joints.
I just had my kitchen renovated and I did porcelain tiles. The first time they put the grout it was almost splotchy with white and off-white color I chose for the grout, it was not solid at all over the whole floor. I made them take out the grout and redo it they told me not to wash my floor for 30 days (not sure if this is true or not ) but anyway it’s been a few weeks now and parts of the tile are grout are white areas again and the grout is powdery if you rub your finger along it. Any idea what could be going on or some suggestions before I call this company back and make them redo it again . This is the second time , the color was better this time but there is still very noticeable white marks everywhere and the grout is almost breaking up in some spots and it hasn’t even been a month . And the grout is already dirty shouldn’t this not get dirty if it was supposed to be stain proof .
Firstly, you mentioned that your grout is stainproof and it should be mentioned that stainproof doesn’t mean dirt-proof or cleaning proof. It just means that it should clean back to white again.
Secondly, white may not be the best color for a kitchen but that’s simply a personal choice. Like I mentioned, it should clean back to white.
You didn’t mention the exact grout that you have installed but because you mentioned that it is powdery I’ll assume that it wasn’t epoxy. This leaves one of the single component grouts (Fusion, Quartzlock, Flexcolor, for example) or one of the grout additives that gets added to cement grout.
There have been reports of at least one brand of grout additive having issues being powdery and the color coming off on the surface. If this is the issue then it’s probably a product or installation issue and should be handled through the installation company.
The single component grouts don’t get hard like an epoxy does. This is a misconception with those grouts. They are softer and can be scratched out if one were trying to do so.
But cracking, and lines, and crumbling shouldn’t happen and that would need to be fixed.
Lastly, cracking and crumbling grout may have nothing to do with the grout and may be a more serious issue involving the tile installation. If the tiles are moving there will be cracking at the grout lines no matter which grout is installed. So, if this is the case, fixing the grout is just treating the symptom and does nothing to cure the cause.
So your problem is hard to diagnose over the internet but the above should give you a little more information so you can narrow down where to concentrate your efforts.
If you get more information, feel free to update. Thanks for looking at my blog.
I am buying a shower kit from American Bath Factory. It is their Mosaic Collection, neo-angle kit in desert sand. It has a Roma-style mosaic tile bonded to the bottom of the metal shower pan. There is also a 6″ wide mosaic tile running horizontally half way up the wall panels.
American Bath Factory told me that the mosaic tiles are glass and that they are .5″ x .5″, .25″ high, and the grout lines are about 1/8”.
American Bath Factory recommends grouting with a non-sanded grout to avoid scratches and they recommend the grout have an acrylic additive for adhesion.
I considered Laticrete Spectra Lock epoxy because the info mentions it is glass-tile appropriate. further down in the spec page I read that it can scratch some tiles including some glass tiles.
I also considered Laticrete Permacolor Select NS (non-sanded) grout as well as Custom Polyblend.
At this point I am about as frustrated as I can be with trying to choose the right grout for my shower floor with the glass tile mosaic in it.
Please give me your thoughts.
Much appreciated,
Marv
Spectralock would be the top-of-the-line grout. It’s unusual that it would scratch glass and that’s more of a disclaimer to protect themselves but it is possible with certain types glass. If you have a finicky type of glass in this kit then I don’t know why they would OK it for a shower floor.
2nd best would be to use a grout additive. I say “2nd best” because I’m ranking these in terms of durability and stain protection. I don’t have a lot of experience with the using these additives to cement grout but I remain cautious of them. I still see quite a few complaints about them but it could very well be users not installing correctly.
3rd would be Permacolor Select NS. Permacolor is a good grout but it is still cement and it still should be sealed even though it says that it isn’t necessary.
In terms of installation, the list above would go in exactly the opposite direction with the epoxy being most difficult to install.
One thing to keep in mind is that with an epoxy like Spectralock you will go through it quickly because of all the grout joints in such a small area so it’s not as easy to get into trouble with it as it is with bigger tile spread out over a bigger area.
So you might try it out. The main thing is to keep it clean. Use the wash packets (Spectralock Pro Premium) and do the final wash with a microfiber towel. Drag it once, flip it over, drag it again, and wash it. The main thing is just getting it clean and it will probably go easier than you would think if you follow the instructions.
Hi there Mr. diy tile guy, I’m in a bit of a jam on a tile/grout issue so a rapid response would be appreciated. These are 4×4 white Dal wall tile with the typical 1/16″ grout spaces (shower walls). The Dal tile counter guy recommended the Fusion Pro (Bright White) for no maintenance/sealing down the road. I asked for non sanded but they don’t make non sanded FP. I didn’t like that but he said the FP can be used in 1/16″ gaps. Any way as I began the clean up of the grout the sand began “rearing it’s ugly head” exposing the coarse texture on the surface ( not good in shower) So I brought down the level of the grout to be able to apply another smooth grout over it. What should I use? An epoxy grout? which one? There is a nice course surface for bonding because of the sand and whatever I use will be a thin layer of mainly color (white) Any thoughts? Am going back tomorrow (Mon.) to fix so once again a quick response is very appreciated. Thx
The only way to get a smooth grout is to use an unsanded grout. So you’re stuck with whatever unsanded grout the store has and Custom Building Products (Home Depot) doesn’t have anything besides Polyblend unsanded.
A better grade of unsanded is available at Lowe’s called Mapei [something] FA. The FA stands for fine aggregate. Another option is Laticrete Permacolor Select NS. You’ll have to search around where to find that brand in your area.
You might be better off scratching out the existing grout as I believe most manufacturers want 1/8 inch deep for a grout joint.
I’m not aware of an epoxy that isn’t sanded. The grouts mentioned above are all cement grout and should be sealed- no matter what it says on the box.
You might look into grout additives that are added to cement grout and make them stain proof (allegedly). That might be your best option of you require a smooth looking grout joint. Typically, the box store will carry a brand of these.
We are installing a new bathroom floor with 4″x8″ ceramic tile, 1/8″ (or less) grout joints (light gray), and would appreciate help in choosing a grout that is low maintenance (no resealing and easy to clean on a daily basis) On the floor of our second bathroom I have grout which I thought was cementitious, but might be PowerGrout (almond – cream). The grout has become a bit yellowish and dirty looking in 5-6 years, I want to avoid this issue (Is there any way to tell if it’s TEC PowerGrout?).
A DIY colleague I trust strongly recommended epoxy grouts, although he warned of installation difficulties. He has worked with them in his own home with excellent results. When I asked contractors for quotes based on epoxy grout installation several were turned off and recommended TEC PowerGrout. In the meantime I researched more and realized that for my installation (no direct water exposure) urethane products might work better. I now have a contractor that gave an initial quote based on “urethane grout installation”.
The only products labeled urethane seem to be from Bostik. I read that Trucolor is not easy to keep clean (not sure why) and is being phased out Vivid will be introduced in the next couple of weeks, exactly when I will need the grout). I read on FlexcolorCQ, Fusion, etc. Laticrete seems well regarded but have only epoxy and cementitious grouts. It is hard for me to assess if Spectralock installation is on par with urethane grouts or much harder. Many comments seem to address glass installations, but that is not my application. Price is not an issue, it is a small area.
Questions: Should I consider “single component” grouts also, and are they easy to keep clean? Should I consider Spectralock? Basically, any advice on brand to choose?
Please feel free to ask for any additional details. I would really appreciate your input. Thank you!
If price and installation aren’t an issue then epoxy grouts are the best option. They are the toughest and most durable. Spectralock is a good epoxy grout and has smaller portion sizes which is nice.
Single component grout is a good alternative but still isn’t as good and durable as epoxy. Fusion and Flexcolor are both good options but aren’t true urethanes. Bostik has the true urethane grouts but it’s hard to keep up with their lines. Trucolor, Dimension, Star Quartz, Quartzlock2, and now, apparently, Vivid. I’m not sure why there’s so many and what the differences are.
So, I think both types are good options but the best is going to be the epoxy. Please keep in mind that grout isn’t dirt-proof nor is it cleaning-proof. But it shouldn’t change color years down the road. If it does, it should be able to be cleaned back to the original color.
Additionally, I’m not sure how to tell if your existing grout is Power Grout.
Thank you, this is very helpful. Would you say that Spectralock installation is similar to that of urethane?
My contractor does not offer any recommendations other than PowerGrout, which he openly acknowledges that cones as recommendation from his distributor. He seems open to try new things though.
Although I am really inclining now towards Spectralock, I do want this to be manageable for the contractor on a first time try of non-cement grouts.
If he reads the instructions then I think it’s manageable. Also, it’s always easier to clean earlier than later so make sure he doesn’t grout on Friday and then try to clean on Monday. Next morning is best.
I’m doing a kitchen floor of 12 x 12 porcelain tile. The edges of this tile are kind of wavy, which was a big part of its attraction for me. I’m doing 1/2″ grout lines, but because of the uneven tile edges, some gaps might be slightly larger than that. For reduced maintenance, I would like to use one of these stain-proof grouts like Flexcolor CQ, whose TDS specifies grout lines *up to* 1/2″. Is everything going to explode if some of the gaps are a fraction of an inch wider? Out of curiosity, what is the purpose of that limitation, anyway?
If my grout lines are too wide for the stain-proof grout, then I will fall back on Laticrete Permacolor grout instead, which has more color choices as well. For a kitchen floor, would you recommend an additive for a cementitious grout like this? I know it will require sealing.
For 1/2 inch grout joints I would not recommend Flexcolor CQ. I think your options would be either an epoxy grout or a cementitious grout such as Permacolor, as you’ve mentioned.
I don’t know a lot about the additives to cement grouts as I usually just use an epoxy if stain resistance and is desired (which it usually is). But do your research as I know some brands of grout additives have had some issues in the past.
OK, thank you. I just received a bag of Permacolor for another project and it says it contains Kevlar. So at least my tile job will be bulletproof ;)
Grout release is not necessary. I used Fusion on our heavily textured porcelain wood look tile and the key to any single component mixed grout is to install 50 sq ft at a time and start cleaning the surface after it has been applied in about 10 minutes. If the stiffness if the joint resembles a play dough type texture it is ready to clean.
For a kitchen floor I wouldn’t recommend a half inch grout line. You can achieve your wavy edge with a 3/8″ grout line.
It’s hard to know whether a tile is rough enough to require a grout release without seeing it however, there’s really no downside to using one.
As far as cleaning, manufacturer’s instructions are to spread 1-4 minutes then start cleaning. My advice is to keep it in the 1-2 minute range.
Hello Mr DIYtileguy,
We are renovating our master bathroom and have selected small marble stones on a mesh (12 x 12)(pebble like) from floor and decor for our shower floor. Our contractor quoted us using a cementious grout, but offered to use whatever we ultimately selected. He did mention that if we decided to use an epoxy grout there would be an up charge, which I think is fair from the research I’ve read. Floor and decor said not to use mapei’s flexcol cq on the floor, but did recommend Bostiks Dimension or never seal. From reading your past comments, you don’t recommend the single compounds grouts. Is Bostiks Dimension okay to use on the shower floor? The manufacturer says it’s okay for interment water locations, which I assume is a shower. The spacing on the marble stones averages between 1/8 and and slightly larger than 1/2. The manufacturer doesn’t recommend any thing larger than 1/2 and it also doesn’t recommend use on pebble floors.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Because of what you’ve mentioned, Bostik Dimension is not a grout that you want to use.
Epoxy is going to be the best bet if you want a durable, stain-proof grout. Otherwise, a sanded cement grout would work.
You could look into sealer additives for cement grout but make sure to check out reviews for these products.
Any updates on if these complaints are legitimate and not anomalies? I am planning to do a shower with Mapei Flexcolor CQ including the 2″ square mosaic floor and now you have me worried. Thanks
I think there’s some legitimacy to them. If you want to use Flexcolor CQ on a shower floor make sure that you adhere to the listed cure times and I recommend exceeding them by a few days.
? Hello! I just read this post as I am sitting down from completing a shower grout job, including floor… with Flexcolor CQ. Has it been asserted that the cure time or process was the reason or alleged reason that contributed to the failure? Any information or guidance in a direction you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Not for sure on either but I think cure time is a big culprit. I recommend waiting 7 days minimum before exposing to water. Also, using too much water during cleaning can have negative effects, I think.
Hello, we have just installed a pebble shower floor and grouted it with flexcolor cq as advised by floor and decor. I just saw your comment of not doing this, and would ask why not. It would be very difficult to remove it. Do I need to seal this grout , even though it says no sealing required?
Mapei Flexcolor CQ, and other grouts like it, have maximum limitations on the thickness of the grout. This maximum is exceeded with pebble tiles. So when this is combined with the abuse that a shower floor is going to get it’s very likely that the grout will end up wearing away.
Additionally, since Flexcolor CQ isn’t a cement grout sealer doesn’t really do anything for it. If you do end up using a sealer, for some reason, then make sure that it’s a water-based sealer and not solvent-based.
Hi Jim,
So does “pebble” include a stone mosaic consisting of square and rectangular pieces
like this: https://thd.co/2GXtji5
If you are asking in regards to grout, then I don’t think those are the same. Those have uniform shapes and the grout joints can be lined up. The maximum grout joint thickness is still in play but I’m thinking those tiles would be OK.
Hello, Thanks for providing the assistance and all the responses… this is the best site I found to learn about grout. Does epoxy grout look like grout? I read somewhere it looks smooth and a bit like plastic? If it ends up looking like cement grout, I would like to use the Spectralock Pro Premium you recommend, for a kitchen countertop. I didn’t choose a bright white grout, but it isn’t very dark… it is going to yellow? The counter gets light from two windows directly above it. Also, the cabinets are custom and beautiful. If I sell my house is 2 years and someone else wants different tile or granite, will the epoxy grout make it more difficult to wreck out than the single component Flexcolor CQ type? Thanks for your advice.
Epoxy grout can look a little like plastic in spots to a well-trained eye. But 99% of people would never notice. The benefits of having epoxy far out-weigh the negatives, in my opinion.
Yes, it’ll make the countertops more difficult to tear out but telling people that the grout is epoxy and still looks like new even though you’ve been using it for two tears I think is a better selling point than “it’s easy to remove.”
Finally, being non-white will help the cause of discoloration. For kitchen countertops, epoxy is the only way to go.
Thanks for the reply. Appreciate all the info on this page.
This is an amazing site and this topic was exactly what I needed to grasp as we are contemplating which tile and grout to go with in a custom shower with tiled floor and walls. One question I didn’t see addressed directly (although you mention it other spots of your blog) is if you’re using the SPECTRALOCK® PRO Premium Grout extensively in say the floors, curb and walls of a shower, where exactly would the limitation be for the grout and where would it be smarter to apply a matching color LATASIL™ caulk line with the (polyethylene or is it polyurethane) backer rod? Typically I’d guess every corner line between floor and wall should be siliconed, but again I just wondered if there was a special exception if you’re using the epoxy grouts?
For context, our shower floor will be roughly 7′ X 4′ with tiled walls 8′ high almost enclosing the space except for ~2′ wide curb at the corner on the end of one of the long walls. The construction of the shower walls has been to this point the 1/2″ concrete backboard screwed to studs with the Schluter Kerdi fabrics/thinset on top as the waterproof membrane. The shower base started as a 4′ x’ 4′ Schluter foam pan but now that we’ve expanded the floor an additional 3′ off one side that base is still TBD. We are in the feature creep, visioneering phase of the project so not everything has been decided but that expanded section of the properly sloped floor will probably be made from a 4-1 mud sand bed with a Schluter Kerdi fabric on top merged into the walls and foam pan top waterproofed surface, even though that would be apparently unusual. We are also considering using some the Kerdi Board and crafting it into was is essentially a large, single sloping plane which will seamlessly blend into the existing 4′ x 4′ foam pan. ( I understand you’re in Washington State but if you feel like quoting a job in Ohio let me know…LOL )
Also getting back to the silicone vs epoxy grout question I looked on the LATASIL™ product pages but they don’t give guidance here about where to use the product on the data sheet. How long would I expect the LATASIL™ to last? Any guesses as to it’s availability say 7-10 years down the road in the exact color matched hue should I be needing to reapply the silicone caulked corners?
Good question! Silicone caulk goes in every “change-of-plane”. What that means is whenever there is a corner then that’s where you put the silicone.
Places you would silicone: the perimeter of the shower pan, the inside vertical corners of the shower, inside corners of a shower niche, around a bench, etc.
You’re also supposed to silicone outside corners as well but it’s not a common practice in the industry. Personally, I typically do not silicone outside corners.
Additionally, some will forego silicone when using epoxy grout. While epoxy is stronger than cement grout and doesn’t crack as often you would be removing the ability for movement. So I would recommend still using silicone even when epoxy grout it used.
Finally, I understand that colors come and go but silicone has a lifespan when it’s stored in a tube. So you might keep a tube on hand for the next couple of years as insurance but, 10 years down the road, you would still need to buy new product. The good news is that you can get custom colors made and it’s not terribly expensive.
When applying Fusion Pro grout, is it safe to scoop up any excess and dump it back into the original container with the unused stuff for later use or will that ruin the whole batch?
I’ve never done this before. It seems like it’s always too wet from the washing process or too hard from sitting out too long. Or too dirty.
But, in theory, if nothing has really happened to it then it should be fine. But if it’s contaminated in some way then you risk hurting the rest of the batch.
Fusion only comes in select sizes and typically I would have too much left over. However, sometimes you do need the full batch so being thrifty could pay off.
Thank you.
Is there anything to watch out for when immediately continuing to apply grout after cleaning up the previous area? Like grout release having been washed off, blending new grout into partially set old grout, or over-washing the overlapping parts of the two areas?
I don’t think so. My advice would be to do a small section and clean it up and wait a day. Then you’ll see what you are in for as far as cleaning the whole thing.
These grouts are a little controversial, I’ve noticed. I like them a lot but some hate them. I use latex paint remover, spray it on a cloth, and clean any remaining film the next day.
Our supplier recommended
proma pro grout one for our shower floor and underneath the washing machine. Both 2×2 tiles. I don’t see any Proma products mentioned. Should we get something else? Thanks. Robert
I’ve never heard of proma grout. You can see if you can find the instruction or maybe select something different.
Thanks. It is recommended because the grout has some flexibility.
Robert
Hello! Found your site as we have tile problems! We had a tile shower put in 9 years ago, and used Tru Color grout used both for the walls and the floor. It looks like the floor has let water get underneath, so we were going to clean out the old grout and put in new. The old grout is soft and crumbly. What is your recommendation for grout? We were thinking just a simple cement type grout, as the Tru color is a problem.
A contractor did this for us when the shower was put in new; but we were going to DIY it, and we have done some grouting, but are not really pros. Thanks!
A cement grout is probably going to be your best bet for performance and ease of use. Look into Prism, Permacolor Select, Ultracolor, or one of their competitors. I would stay away from traditional sanded or unsanded cement grouts.
Hi DIY Tile Guys!
I apologize, I tried to post on another post but my question never showed, wondering if it was lost or if it just takes a bit to show up. Just in case, I’m posting again. Could really use your help selecting grout for our kitchen backsplash. We’d like to install 3×6 glass tiles, 4mm thick and the space between the tiles is 3mm (they are backed on mesh). The place where we purchased the tile wants to use Mapei Flexcolor CQ grout but I’ve learned that is sanded. Won’t the scratch the tile? I never want to tell a Pro to use a different product but I certainly don’t want scratched tiles. Any and all advice is much appreciated. Thanks so much for your time.
I answered the first question in the other post before I saw this. You can see my comment over there.
https://www.diytileguy.com/what-kind-of-grout-do-i-need/
I have used the Fusion Pro grout for groutable LVT (luxury vinyl tile). I did a bunch of research before attempting it for the first time, and manufacturer recommends using a single component grout because it has such a thin depth. I’ve done this twice now, once in a kitchen and once in a hallway, so high-traffic / heavy-use areas.
There are so many advantages to this grout – stainproof, never needs sealing, cleans up like a dream, color is a perfect match from batch to batch. For installation, you can start and stop the grout job at any point and pick up days later if necessary; it sticks to itself with no problem, so if you made a mistake and need to fill in a little bit more you don’t have to dig out the joint to refill; no mixing required; and of course, big newbie mistakes happen, so if you run out of grout you can just pick up another bucket without worrying about color or consistency matching.
I guess I was fortunate in that I’ve never used “regular” grout, so I didn’t have any comparison on ease of installation. I read all of the negative reviews, and almost without fail, they seemed to be from people who didn’t read or follow the instructions. They said things like “worst grout I’ve ever used” and “this stuff sticks to the tile and you can’t clean the haze off”.
Both of my installations were textured / realistic looking tiles. I was nervous about the install at first and especially about the hazing issue people were complaining about because one of my tiles was a white and grey marble-look textured tile that’s hard to clean anyway. I didn’t have any problems, though, and I assume people who did were smearing this grout over the whole area first and then trying to go back later, like you would with a regular grout.
My tips for success would be – 1. Read the Instructions and Follow Them!! CBP has a couple of great videos on installation on their website – watch them, especially the “Tips and Tricks” one
2. Vacuum every speck of dirt and particles out of the grout lines
3. Dampen the top of the tiles before you grout – lightly damp, no water pooling
4. Only do a couple of square feet at a time
5. Grout, then clean up immediately after per instructions
6. Invest in the microfiber cloth and drag over the top after sponging
7. Dried grout haze – go back over the tile with a little fresh grout to loosen it up, then clean
8. Don’t scrape the unused grout off your float back into the tub. No way, if you’re doing it right, that it didn’t get more water mixed in. I used a small separate little tub for this, and would reuse for the next section from there if it wasn’t too damp. But don’t contaminate the tub – a few drops of added water over and over is going to cause problems with color and consistency
I am doing my first “real tile” project – a full shower – and your blog, videos and help have been invaluable!
I was planning on using the Fusion Pro as the grout for the shower floor and walls, but after reading your article I’m having second thoughts about the shower floor. On the one hand, I really feel like the complaints out there probably were from people who either over-watered during installation, didn’t wait until the grout was completely dry before using the shower, and / or didn’t follow the manufacturer’s instructions in some other way. On the other hand, this project is taking me forever as it is, if I invest the time and money into using it and it fails, I just may have a nervous breakdown!
My question for you – do you think I should proceed with the Fusion Pro as planned, or do you recommend a different grout? I’ve installed matte mosaic porcelain tiles (2×2 squares on mesh backing) on the floor and 3×6 glossy white subway tiles on the walls.
Good tips and thanks for your comment. I believe most of the issues with Fusion Pro are installer error also.
I believe it will do fine on a shower floor if the instructions are followed which includes cure times. For walls, it’s a great choice. Personally, I think epoxy grout is a better choice for shower floors and that’s what I use in my personal practice.
Thanks so much for the insight & advice. I’ll reconsider the epoxy grout for the shower floor.
Does white epoxy grout turn yellow? We’d like to use white epoxy grout with white ceramic tiles for our kitchen backsplash. We’ve read some comments online, mostly dating back to 2016 and earlier, about white epoxy grout turning yellow. Various reasons are suggested – UV exposure, use of bleach to clean the grout, or the nature of the agent used to fix the tiles in place. Is yellowing still a problem? Does anyone know for sure what causes it?
Yes, it can and I think there are several causes. Cleaning products being one and several others. It’s a problem that’s more common than what I originally thought but it doesn’t happen on every project. If you can avoid white that would be the safest course of action.
About epoxy, it will turn yellow after some years. I used Kerapoxy by Mapei ; color white ”#38 Avalanche” with white ceramic tiles 8 years ago after 3-4 years it was beginning to look yellow, now it’s worst, we try all possible cleaners up to acid, chlorine and NaOH without success. I don’t know about other colors but I know that the white color turn yellow
I have used Fusion Pro on my kitchen counter tops and I am very unhappy with it. Within months it started staining. I will never buy Custom Building Products again. They say you don’t need to seal Fusion Pro it’s a big lie!
Have you used Spectralock 1 yet? Looking at it as an alternative to white epoxy in a wet room (worried about yellowing).
Not yet. I was hoping to on a recent project but the colors just didn’t work out. I think whites are all prone to yellowing but epoxy is the biggest offender.
Hello! What kind of grout do you recommend for marble bathroom and shower floors? We are doing 1×3 herringbone pattern white Carrara marble on the bathroom and shower floors. I need a white grout that’s stain resistant but that’s also safe to install with marble. Please advise. Thanks in advance for the help.
The grout that I like best for that specific application, assuming the grout joints are 1/16th inch, is Laticrete Permacolor Select NS (Amazon affiliate links). That’s a link to the base product and you have to buy the color packets separately to add to it.
I’ve just read thru your comments and Q&A so as to understand the difference between Bostik TruColor Urethane Grout and Custom Fusion Pro. I’m an architect, but haven’t found manufacturers’ technical references or salespeople that discuss the advantages and disadvantages of each project as clearly as you do.
Thank you so much for helping out all of us DIYers and those of us who want our contractors to do the best job possible!
Thanks you!