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You are here: Home / Install / Tips & Tricks / Don’t let your tile accent strip look like this

Don’t let your tile accent strip look like this

December 3, 2012 by James Upton 69 Comments

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Getting your mosaic and glass tile accent strips to be flush and flat with the surrounding tile can be difficult unless you know a trick for it.

Here’s a technique for building up the thinner decorative tile so that it’s even with the thicker tile without creating a huge mess of thinset oozing out of the grout joints.

Estimated reading time: 5 minutes

How to install tile of different thicknesses flush, flat, and even with each other

glass mosaic accent tile
Mosaic tile installed as an accent

But first, you might want to try this

Roger (The Floor Elf) has a technique posted on his site that accomplishes the same thing but in a different way.

The method that he showcases is easier, but it doesn’t work in every situation. I encourage you to check out his post Setting different thicknesses of tile for inserts.

tile spacers cut to same size accent
The tiles to each side were cut out of scrap and are the exact size as the accent tile and are used as spacers

See my post on the Proper Placement Height of a Tile Accent in a Shower

1. First, install the field tile with spacers

I cut spacers out of scrap tile that is the exact same size as the glass accents, so I can install the wall tile first.

Once the wall tile is dry the spacers are pulled out. I put the plastic blue tile spacers in where the grout joints will go on the top and bottom. (See photos below)

tile spacers in accent channel
The spacers are used to space the accent channel

2. Create your very own custom tile tool

Get yourself a plastic putty knife that is wider than the decorative accent band and cut it so that it will trowel slightly deeper (no more than 1/16th of an inch deeper) than your mosaic accent tile.

putty knife cut into trowel
Create a trowel out of a plastic putty knife

3. Make the channel the correct depth

Tape off both sides of the accent channel and fill it with thinset.

Use your putty knife to trowel the mortar to the right depth paying special attention to the corners and the ends.

thinset in tile accent channel
Use the trowel to get the thinset mortar to the correct depth

Make sure to run it on both the top and bottom of the channel. Keep clean water and a sponge to make sure things stay clean.

4. Install the mosaic or glass tile accent band

Take your same putty knife and turn it into a notched trowel. 

I used a 1/8″ x 1/8″ notch trowel as a template, marked out the notches with a sharpie, and cut the notches with my tile saw.

notch trowel putty knife
A custom made notch trowel for installing the mosaic

Then trowel more thinset into the channel using your plastic notch trowel and install the mosaic tile. I use a grout float to beat it into place.

Then use spacers to center it in the channel.

decorative mosaic tile being installed
Install the mosaic in the channel and use a grout float to press it in. Then install spacers to make it even and straighten it out.

There’s more than one method to get your mosaic tile accent band flush with the rest of the wall tile. Although this method is time-consuming I feel it creates the nicest finished product.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

glass tile accent band installed flat straight
mosaic accent installed flat and straight
crooked uneven linear glass mosaic accent tile
This is what you want to avoid

Filed Under: Tips & Tricks

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Don Scott says

    May 9, 2013 at 5:23 am

    Thanks for posting this..I am a remodeling contractor and have always had difficulty in getting this done efficiently. I always ended up with a great looking job, but fighting the lippage and thinset was always frustrating. I should dope-slap myself for not finding your method sooner. If you’re interested I’ll keep you posted on my latest project – I’m actually not dreading going to the jobsite this morning after learning this.

    Don

  2. pete says

    December 5, 2013 at 11:00 pm

    What I do is….lay mosaics face down on flat surface….next skim coat back of mosaic…..next day it’s 1 stiff piece. Mosaics are 100% flat. Then bond to wall with a few dabs of mortar.

  3. DIYTileGuy says

    December 6, 2013 at 11:13 pm

    I do this same trick on occasion also. It’s definitely simpler and it’s another way to achieve the same thing.

    I appreciate the comment.

  4. eric says

    August 28, 2014 at 7:54 pm

    not a bad process….fill the area with thinset where the mosiac/listello/decorative tile is going be installed…take a piece of 1/4 plywood and make a screed stick….notch the screed stick to the thisckness of the mosiac and a a little for the thinset to be applied for installation….screed the area that you filled with your screed stick and let dry…after it has dried apply the thickness of thinset desired and then install your mosiac/listello or decorative tile. no matter how thick the bottom or top of the tile you installed is with a screed stick it will balance itself out as you make ur pass in the thinset….after installation of you mosiac it will lie flat and even with your wall tile.

  5. eric says

    August 28, 2014 at 8:03 pm

    pete…when installing tile in a wet moist area such as a shower the industry standards is 95% or better of thinset coverage and contact to the substrate surface. dapping thinset is below industry standards…..spot setting tile in a shower is an old timers way….nothing but warranty problems with a greater chance to fail.

  6. DIYTileGuy says

    September 2, 2014 at 11:30 am

    Thanks for your comments, Eric. :-)

  7. LaNell Barrett says

    February 17, 2015 at 8:58 pm

    How about building out mosaic area with Kerdi material and thinset

  8. DIYTileGuy says

    February 18, 2015 at 5:05 pm

    What I’ve shown here is simply one way of doing it. There are other ways and the way that you had mentioned is similar to the link that I posted in the beginning of the post that Roger has shown at his site.

  9. Duane Monroe says

    January 31, 2016 at 6:41 pm

    I’m trying to install a 4″ wide mosaic accent in a shower. The mosaic tiles are about 3/32 thinner than the base tiles. I want to try your method, but have a couple questions:
    1) when I fill the channel with thin set (step 3), can I let that dry, or partially set, before the next step?
    2) I’m concerned about the thin set sagging. Do you mix it “thicker” to prevent this?
    3) would it be OK to butter the back of the accent tiles in step 4, rather than using a notched trowel in the channel?

  10. DIYTileGuy says

    February 1, 2016 at 5:38 pm

    Hi Duane, I’ll answer the questions as they are numbered:

    1) Yes
    2) Yes. More peanut butter-y than say yogurt-y.
    3) No. The problem is that the thinset will show through. A lot of times I skip the notched trowel step and just put the mosaic in. I don’t even let the thinset dry. But if you’re worried about sag then it’s probably best to do it in 2 steps.

    Additionally, you can adjust the amount of thinset in the channel by varying the angle of the plastic knife. For instance if you hold it straight out at a 90 degree angle you’ll have less thinset in the channel than if you held it at an angle.

    So you might be able to do it that way using the same plastic putty knife for both steps and without making notches in it.

  11. Duane Monroe says

    February 2, 2016 at 1:36 am

    Thanks. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

  12. Duane Monroe says

    February 4, 2016 at 8:47 am

    Definitely an art to it, but it turned out pretty good considering this is my first time installing tile.

  13. Patty Cidone says

    February 16, 2016 at 5:53 pm

    My problem is the other way around. I have marble accent tiles that I want to use that are about 1/16″ thicker than the surrounding wall tiles that I have already purchased. Is there a solution for this?

  14. DIYTileGuy says

    February 16, 2016 at 6:00 pm

    Assuming that none of the tile is installed yet, I think you’ll find that once the bigger wall tile are installed that this problem will go away. The mosaics shouldn’t stick out past at that point.

  15. J.R. MacLean says

    April 9, 2016 at 5:58 am

    AS a long-time general home improvement guy, this post has been truly helpful. I do a fair bit of tiling, but his definitely helps to raise my game. Thanks!

  16. DIYTileGuy says

    April 9, 2016 at 1:53 pm

    Thank you for the feedback!

  17. Dawna says

    May 27, 2016 at 9:13 am

    Ok, I am a first timer trying to tile an outdoor patio table top. We have never tiled anything. I looked all over Pinterest for inspiration and have been googling how to tile, what to use, etc. I am using an old electrical wire wooden spool for my table (60″ round). My husband wrapped a piece of steel metal around the edge of the spool leaving about 1/4″ above the top. I am laying a Mosaic pattern on top with 4-18″ square porcelain tiles with 4″ tiles around the outside and filling in between the large tiles and the outside tiles with 2″ tiles in between. I wanted to cover the top with backerboard but my husband refuses. He thinks it will be fine to just tile on top of the wood. I said we should at least lay a thin set of the mortar first to kind of even out the boards (not flat and have gaps) – let it dry overnight and then do our regular mortar to set the tiles on. Will that work for this purpose of trying to get by as cheap as we can since it won’t have a lot of weight on it like a floor? Also the 3 tiles are different thicknesses. And since it a random pattern would be hard to put something behind each one to build up the not so thick ones. Is there a way to place them on the mortar and then lay a board or something over them after placing them to kind of push them in to the mortar the same depth?

  18. DIYTileGuy says

    May 27, 2016 at 5:30 pm

    Interesting question. I don’t think it’s advisable to tile over the top of a wooden spool. I don’t think it’s going to last. The absolute best way to go about it would be to use a foam board like Wedi board between the tile and the wooden table top. However, foam board is a bit of a specialty product and isn’t cheap. So my next suggestion would be to use cement board or hardibacker board.

    With the varying sizes of the tile I think if you can install them upside down that would be the best and flattest. In other words arrange the tiles upside down and adhere the backerboard to them. Let it dry and pick it up and flip the backerboard over and install on the spool. Depending on how much difference there is between the tile thickness and how much thinset you put down you may find that some of them don’t stick.

    So with cement board you are supposed to screw it down as well as thinset it down. If you adhere the tiles before hand then you wouldn’t be able to screw it to the spool top. But if you use a high quality thinset then you may be able to get away with not screwing it in this situation.

  19. Sarah says

    December 12, 2016 at 7:34 am

    I’m wanting to change the stripe on my bathroom tile without using paint. Is there a product out there that you can stick on over top of ithe stripe. It would have to be very thin so it doesn’t stick out and look like it’s part of the tile.

  20. DIYTileGuy says

    December 15, 2016 at 9:45 am

    I’m not aware of a product that would do this.

  21. Balfour via says

    December 17, 2016 at 8:14 pm

    I have recently cut a strip of Schlueter Deidre to raise my mosaic deco an eighth of an inch. I found this to be the quickest easiest and most precise way to make it flush with the adjacent field tile . My field tile was half inch porcelain .

  22. Cindy Kao says

    December 18, 2016 at 12:24 pm

    We hired our contractor to tile our shower with epoxy grout; however I just found out they are planning to use Fusion Pro Grout. I read a lot of terrible reviews about this grout and understand that it is not epoxy grout. Several reviews said it could not be used in shower pans and that water will erode away the grout. Is this true, or is the erodability a function of poor installation? If installed properly, will this grout be stain resistant, water resistant, and hard and durable for the long term?

  23. DIYTileGuy says

    December 19, 2016 at 8:14 am

    If you hired the contractor and specified epoxy then you should get epoxy grout. Epoxy and Fusion aren’t the same thing. Epoxy is a stronger and more durable grout.

    I’ve used Fusion several times going back to 2013. I haven’t experienced any problems with the grout and have had good success with it. I have heard of the shower pan issues but don’t know what the cause is or if it’s even more than rumors. For the time being I am holding off on using it on shower projects until there’s more clarity.

  24. Ronald says

    January 7, 2017 at 10:16 am

    Are you suppose to let the thinset dry between step 3 and step 4?

  25. DIYTileGuy says

    January 7, 2017 at 10:19 am

    Yes, although it can be fine both ways

  26. DIYTileGuy says

    January 7, 2017 at 10:33 am

    Also, I don’t think it matters to wet the Thinset down prior to the second notch coat. Thanks.

  27. Ronald says

    January 27, 2017 at 6:53 am

    i am installing a glass mosaic tile, paper front,brick layout in a channel between 1/4 (plus thinset) tiles. How much thinset should there be between thes glass tiles and backer board once installed, what size trowel should I use. My last time trying to install squeezed thinset out too much,created a mess, and therefore took the tiles down.

    Thanks

  28. DIYTileGuy says

    January 27, 2017 at 1:20 pm

    You might have to experiment a little. With glass you want enough thinset behind it for proper coverage and also because you’ll see if there isn’t enough thinset through the glass. But, like you said, if there’s too much on there it will come through the grout joints and make a big mess.

  29. Jack says

    May 10, 2017 at 11:43 pm

    Hownin the workd can you have confisence that you are building up the thinset just the right amount, and uniformly over a flat surface? Using just a plastic trowel and holding at an angle and just eye-balling it? Really? What am I missing?

  30. DIYTileGuy says

    May 13, 2017 at 1:28 pm

    It works. Use the accent tile to set the notch on the plastic trowel. You can hold a test piece of the accent in the channel to make sure you have the right depth.

  31. Jack Titchener says

    September 13, 2017 at 1:51 pm

    I think it is important to consider the depth of the grooves in a mosaic panel so that the walls of wherever they are installed are relatively smooth and even. My wife and I are thinking about renovating our kitchen and have been considering getting some mosaic designs for above the sink. I appreciate the design tips, I’ll have to consider getting glass if we ever go through with remodel.

  32. Gerald says

    September 25, 2017 at 9:33 am

    I am installing a 4″ row of 5/8″ mosaic accent tile in my shower. I have installed the 13 x 13 inch thick porcelain floor tiles on the walls up to the point where the mosaic tiles will go, having started the job with ledger boards. I don’t have the tiles above the mosaics in yet. I need to back up the mosaic tiles and like your method, but without installing the tile above them, can’t see it working right. Since the porcelain tiles are heavy would I have to use ledger boards again above the mosaic location to make the method work, the install the mosaics?

  33. DIYTileGuy says

    September 25, 2017 at 5:17 pm

    Yes! You can see in the photos above that I made spacers out of tile. You can use a ledger board if that’s what you prefer although you have to be careful to keep the spacing consistent all the way around.

  34. Gerald Jeka says

    September 26, 2017 at 11:31 am

    I picked up some Ditra that seems the perfect thickness to put in behind the mosaic tiles to get level with the wall tiles. If I were to install the Ditra and mosaics in thinset first and then add on my top row of 13 x 13 inch wall tiles after they are cured, do you forsee any issues with spacers on the mosaics to mount the tiles, assuming the mosaics are in straight.

  35. DIYTileGuy says

    September 26, 2017 at 7:35 pm

    You can try it but I think it’s going to be a bit challenging because when you go to wedge the top 13×13 the only place to wedge off of is the small mosaic tiles. I think it could break some of these loose. However, if you do try it then I recommend installing the Ditra backward with the mosaic on the fleece side.

  36. Gerald says

    September 28, 2017 at 12:15 pm

    Jim,

    I followed your lead and used spacer blocks to set the upper row of wall tiles adjacent to the mosaic tile accent band area. I ended up cutting the exact height on my wooden spacers that I needed using a miter saw with a stop block. It worked great.

    So when you screeded on thinset for the mosaics in step 3 with a flat trowel, did you allow that to dry fully? Then in step 4 add more thinset and trowel with your improvised notched trowel? Would a normal 1/8″ trowel work just the same if the initial layer was fully set?
    Thanks for your help.

  37. DIYTileGuy says

    September 29, 2017 at 9:39 am

    Yes, in the blog post above I did allow it to dry then used my homemade notch trowel. Since then, I’ve evolved into not letting it dry and just doing everything in one step although sometimes the depth of the channel doesn’t allow for that. It can be too deep and the thinset will need to dry first.

    But you can use a 1/8 inch notch trowel as long as it will fit in the groove. Oftentimes, they are too wide to fit in the channel.

  38. Simon says

    October 3, 2017 at 9:49 am

    Great Article…. Wish I had read some of these comments before attempting to lay a decorative 36×36″ in my Foyer… This was my search “how thick must thinset be to adhere” The reason for that search is I was wondering how thick does the thinset need to be to have a good stick/foundation. I deduce 1/8″ since that is the smallest trowel I’ve seen. The reason for a thin application is due to the tiles that meet-up to my mosaic are a bit lower than desired (moved the mosaic planned) . Hence me thinking Mastic and off down the rabbit hole on the Net. Great tips and tricks, I will add that tid-bit about thin set on the back to have a ‘stiffer’ mat to work with.

    Thanks again,

  39. DIYTileGuy says

    October 3, 2017 at 4:43 pm

    You may also want to experiment with mounting them on a foam panel first. You can get foam board in 1/8 or 1/4 inch thicknesses. That may solve the problem that you are having.

  40. Linda Carmichael says

    November 17, 2017 at 8:20 am

    Thank you for your thorough post. Very helpful.

  41. Kristina Komaromy says

    December 5, 2017 at 8:21 pm

    Hi, if the contractor installed the glass and stone mosaic wall tiles in my bathroom as a decorative stripe and they are all uneven, not flat, I have the right to ask him to redo them, or correct them, right? This is my first time ever remodeling my bathroom, but to me it seems wrong if they want to give it to me like this…. Please advise, thank you for your feedback. And I am not talking about a millimeter here and there, larger, 5-6 millimeter depth, mosaics sticking out, etc etc. Not flat or even with the surrounding tiles at all…. Please tell me what you think….

  42. DIYTileGuy says

    December 7, 2017 at 8:42 pm

    Yes. Unless the look of it is supposed to be uneven which it sounds like this is not the case. So if it looks uneven with lippage then it should be redone at the contractor’s expense.

  43. Darla Gaylor says

    February 14, 2018 at 6:33 am

    Good heavens! Thank you! I thought I was going to lose my mind this past week. Never could get it flat. Now I know what to do!

  44. DANIEL says

    March 22, 2018 at 9:26 pm

    Quick question regarding this post, I bought 9 medallions 24″X24″ and these are thicker than my 12X12 granite tiles. The house is ready to tile but I need to find a solution to my problem. What should I do? Thanks.

  45. DIYTileGuy says

    March 26, 2018 at 6:53 am

    So the problem is that the medallions are thicker? About the only thing that you can do is grind the backs off to make them thinner or learn to like the “3-D” aspect of the medallions.

  46. Danny Mullin says

    May 24, 2018 at 7:45 pm

    I need to lay very thin accent mosaic tiles ( maybe 1/8″ thick) between 3/8 tile in a shower. What I want to do is take 1/4″ hardibacker board and mount the mosaic tile directly on this flat board. Once dried then mount the hardipacker board on the wall just like a tile since now the thickness is the same. Any concerns doing this with backerboard. Using the Schluter board for the shower and ALL set thin set.

  47. DIYTileGuy says

    May 25, 2018 at 8:12 am

    You won’t get a manufacturer’s approval not is this recommend anywhere. But I know many installers that do it this way, out a variation of this method, and it’s worked well for them.

  48. Danny Mullin says

    May 26, 2018 at 6:07 am

    I was concerned about moisture getting to the hardibacker board since in a shower about 5 ft up horizontal so I plan on using Schluter waterproof membrane between the hardibacker and the thin mosaic tiles. Maybe overkill but I have the room and material. Thanks again for the quick reply. I could use two layers of Ditra but I believe this will give me the flattest install without lippage. Very pleased with the ALL SET modified thinset.

  49. DIYTileGuy says

    May 26, 2018 at 10:21 am

    Good feedback! I’ve heard that the new formulation of All Set is is pretty good. There were a lot of complaints about it previously.

  50. Rita says

    October 27, 2018 at 1:35 pm

    I am having 2 bathrooms remodeled and I noticed the accent glass tiles in the first bathroom are not flush with the shower tiles. It is a line design that runs midway horizontal through the wall of the bathtub shower, I am concerned about water collecting along the grout lines as the bottom of the glass tiles are recessed but tend to overlap the other tile at the top. They are not flush at all and some are even zigzagged, Nervous about the upkeep as using a rubber scraper after a shower would not be useful to remove excess water in that area, Can this be fixed??

  51. DIYTileGuy says

    October 31, 2018 at 11:11 am

    It depends on the accent tile. If it’s smooth and uniform then it’s probably not properly installed.

    However, if it’s more uneven in appearance then the issue is more likely product selection.

  52. Marlene says

    May 9, 2019 at 12:18 pm

    I’m trying to install individual 2″ x 2″ tiles in an inset of my dining table. They are all separate so I can mix the designs. White tiles were previously there. The area that I will cover is in good shape. It seems to be a rough processed wood. The tiles fit perfectly across and down 24″ x 42″. I don’t believe there’s too much room for spacers. Is it okay to lay them on top of adhesive without spacers? How do I make them flat so I don’t have areas that set higher than others? There’s no room to place any backer board underneath like you suggested above (laying the tiles upside down on the board). I’d appreciate any help you can give.

  53. DIYTileGuy says

    May 10, 2019 at 10:44 am

    About the only thing that I can think of is to get some sticky plastic that you can mount the mosaics to beforehand. Install them upside-down onto the adhesive. Then mount the mosaics. I’m not sure where you get it from- maybe a craft store?

    Plastic carpet runner, found at big box stores in the carpet section, could work but it’s very sticky and you wouldn’t be able to remove it until the tile is completely dry which would be at least a day.

    This is a problem because you won’t be able to clean out any mortar from between the tiles until after it’s dry.

    Those are the only ideas I have for that.

  54. gary says

    February 16, 2020 at 3:55 pm

    I’ve been doing this also or using 1/8 inch wedi board why make the job harder than it already is.

  55. DIYTileGuy says

    February 17, 2020 at 8:26 pm

    That works also and is essentially the same thing that Roger is doing in the link above although he’s using 1/8 inch Ditra.

    But not everyone has 1/8 inch Wedi and it doesn’t work for every situation. Nothing wrong with options.

  56. Rod says

    February 21, 2020 at 11:37 am

    Grout/ thinset is NOT waterproof so definitely cover the top with cement board, Or Kerdi with the correct screws so they don’t get eaten up by the chemicals in the cement products.
    Next, if using cement board, roll out a coat of Redgard waterproof membrane, let it dry and give it another coat. (I did 4 coats in my shower)
    Then set your tile, with either white or grey thinset, depending on the color of tile used.I prefer white. Any liquids, Drinks or Rain can be wiped up and the wood will not be damaged

  57. DIYTileGuy says

    February 22, 2020 at 9:45 am

    Good suggestion! Thanks for the input.

  58. Bob Wolf says

    April 17, 2020 at 1:38 pm

    I have a slightly different question. I have been warned that if you sanded grout on glass tiles it will scratch them,which makes sense. Should I grout my field tiles, insert the glass mosaic accent strip and then grout that with an unsanded grout of the same color and manufacturer . Will the color be consistent and will I maintain the same leakage protection? or is there another solution?

  59. DIYTileGuy says

    April 17, 2020 at 3:06 pm

    Sanded grout can scratch glass tiles but I would say that most of the time it doesn’t. You should always check prior to grouting if sanded is something that you want to use.

    Installing the way that you described would work but, if it were me, I would install all of the tile first and simple mask off the glass accent tile. Grout color would be consistent in theory but you never know. It’s always a good idea to test on a mock up installation first.

  60. Mary farrell says

    November 11, 2020 at 9:52 am

    Please tell me how to lay a back splash if you gave a patterned 8×8 tile. I am not sure we’re to start the pattern over my range.

  61. DIYTileGuy says

    November 12, 2020 at 5:59 am

    Typically, you would center it behind the stove and go full tile off of the countertop. Remember, you can center on a grout joint or center on the tile for two different options.

  62. jim VanBergen says

    December 19, 2020 at 10:36 am

    Would it work to use 1/8″ DITRA under the mosaic tile strip? Install the DITRA like you normally would then apply thinset and press the mosaic strip into it?

  63. DIYTileGuy says

    December 19, 2020 at 2:47 pm

    Yes, it works but I prefer 1/8 inch Kerdi or Wedi board.

    In this case, I like to mount the tiles first, let them dry overnight, and then place them in the channel. If you use this method, with Ditra, you’ll have to cut them up into 12 inch, or so, strips as one 39 inch long band is too long to place with one person.

  64. jim VanBergen says

    December 20, 2020 at 6:48 pm

    I am doing a walk-in shower with 1/2 inch Kerdi board. the tile is 12″x24″. i am using a 1/2″x1/2″ trowel. the mosaic will be 4″ wide in 12″ sections. i was wondering if the Ditra could be cemented to the Kerdi board and then cementing the mosaic over the Ditra with a smaller trowel (maybe 1/4×1/4) or whatever it takes to bring the mosaic up flush to the main tiles.

  65. DIYTileGuy says

    December 21, 2020 at 7:28 am

    Yes, with an asterisk. If your mosaic is too small, then it may want to conform to the holes in Ditra. To get around this, you might think about prefilling the Ditra first and letting it dry, or at least firm up.

    The other issue is that you would be assuming that your channel where the mosaic strip goes is a consistent depth. That’s why I prefer 1/8 inch Kerdi board for this. You premount on the Kerdiboard and then place it in the channel. But, I understand that it’s another thing to buy and that not everyone has good access to the product.

    But, you can do it that way if you think it will work for your situation.

  66. Heather says

    March 6, 2021 at 8:43 am

    I am working on a kitchen backsplash and I am wondering if it is possible to leave tiles at different thicknesses for accenting instead of trying to lay them all evenly.

    Thanks!

  67. DIYTileGuy says

    March 6, 2021 at 9:01 am

    Yes. If you want the depth to stand out then definitely leave at a different thickness

  68. Alan says

    April 29, 2021 at 12:34 pm

    Just stumbled across this great information. I have a a shower to do with a mosaic accent border and I know the moasic is thinner than the wall tile. Has anyone put up any youtube videos on this showing various methods to get a nice flush finish with tiles of different depth together? Thx

  69. DIYTileGuy says

    April 30, 2021 at 5:34 am

    I don’t know. I’ve been wanting to but none of my projects have had this detail in a while. Go figure.

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